Heated Jacket Not Working!

st11ray

st11ray

2006 ST1300
Joined
Jul 29, 2007
Messages
2,041
Location
charlotte, nc
Bike
'06 ST1300
I switched over to a new bike back in August. I hooked up my W&S power lead to my EB PC8 fuse box. I have my lights going through the fuse box and they work fine.
Last week it was time for heat on the ride into work in the morning. I geared up and hit the road.
I thought, hmm my hands and torso aren't feeling any warmth!
I checked the lead and it has power to it. I tried my wife's controller, which never gets used, and nothing. I tried both of our jackets and controllers in every combination and nothing?
Any ideas? I just find it hard to believe that my wife's gear that just hangs in the closet and has only been used a handful of times is not working either.
I'm going to pull plastic and check all connections this weekend. I need some heat!
 
FWIW, WnS owner recommends taking the power right to the battery -- no fuse boxes, no system-switchers, or any of that. Of course, their harness is already fused, but you know that.

Having said that, on my KTM and another bike (don't remember which one F650 maybe), I did exactly that - run from a no-name multi-power gadget and the Widder (at the time) worked great.

However, with the Warm and Safe, it's direct-to-battery and works great on my '22 GSA, and it's also taking up space on the + and - leads on the ST1300. Both are working great this way, the WnS is a little over a year old I think.

First step, attach the harness straight to your battery and take it from there. If no heat, Mike at WnS usually returns calls promptly (I've only called twice). If it was working (I assume it was) previously from your PC8 box, then I don't know. I guess from there you'd try different positions / stations on the fuse box, with each of your controllers.

Good luck! I can't ride in the 20s without 12v heated assistance.
 
st11ray said:
I switched over to a new bike back in August. I hooked up my W&S power lead to my EB PC8 fuse box. I have my lights going through the fuse box and they work fine.
Last week it was time for heat on the ride into work in the morning. I geared up and hit the road.
I thought, hmm my hands and torso aren't feeling any warmth!
I checked the lead and it has power to it. I tried my wife's controller, which never gets used, and nothing. I tried both of our jackets and controllers in every combination and nothing?
Any ideas? I just find it hard to believe that my wife's gear that just hangs in the closet and has only been used a handful of times is not working either.
I'm going to pull plastic and check all connections this weekend. I need some heat!
Click to expand...
You said the "lead" has power to it. Is this the female plug coming out of the bike that the jacket plugs into? If it does have 12v power the W&S remotes/W&S jackets must generate 30% heat even without pairing to the controllers. No heat must mean no 12V to the jacket.
 
Sadlsor said:
FWIW, WnS owner recommends taking the power right to the battery -- no fuse boxes, no system-switchers, or any of that. Of course, their harness is already fused, but you know that.

Having said that, on my KTM and another bike (don't remember which one F650 maybe), I did exactly that - run from a no-name multi-power gadget and the Widder (at the time) worked great.

However, with the Warm and Safe, it's direct-to-battery and works great on my '22 GSA, and it's also taking up space on the + and - leads on the ST1300. Both are working great this way, the WnS is a little over a year old I think.

First step, attach the harness straight to your battery and take it from there. If no heat, Mike at WnS usually returns calls promptly (I've only called twice). If it was working (I assume it was) previously from your PC8 box, then I don't know. I guess from there you'd try different positions / stations on the fuse box, with each of your controllers.

Good luck! I can't ride in the 20s without 12v heated assistance.
Click to expand...
I had the same set up on my ST for 15 years. W&S power lead from my Easternbeaver PC8. Never had a single issue with any of my heated gear.

The only difference after switching things over is that the Yamaha already had a PC8. I did not swap fuse boxes. But, I have power on the lead and my 2 sets of lights and battery tender, which goes through my PC8 too.
 
dduelin said:
You said the "lead" has power to it. Is this the female plug coming out of the bike that the jacket plugs into? If it does have 12v power the W&S remotes/W&S jackets must generate 30% heat even without pairing to the controllers. No heat must mean no 12V to the jacket.
Click to expand...
I have the old school plug in dual controller, no pairing. I have power at the female plug that the controller plugs into. My wife's controller may have been used 10 times since I bought it and it doesn't work either.

It doesn't make sense that I have power at the plug but neither of my controllers seem to be getting power.
 
I've been running my heated gear through a fuseblock for many, many years.
Can you hook up a connection to your heated gear from another source (maybe an adapter in your auto cigar plug)?
I'd also hook the gear up directly if you can without the controller to see if it is a gear issue or a controller issue.
I have had W&S Controllers go south suddenly and for no reason.
I presume the lights on the controller are not on or flashing?
 
st11ray said:
I have the old school plug in dual controller, no pairing. I have power at the female plug that the controller plugs into. My wife's controller may have been used 10 times since I bought it and it doesn't work either.

It doesn't make sense that I have power at the plug but neither of my controllers seem to be getting power.
Click to expand...
I have the same set up with the Eastern Beaver Centech II fuse block and dual portable controller. Two weeks ago mid ride my gloves and liner got cold. I turned both glove and liner dials off and then turned on again. That seemed to fix things. If you have the dual and both gloves and jacket liners don't heat than I think the controller has gone south.
 
Since you have power in the female coax coming from the battery, stick the male lead coming out of the liner in it (bypassing the controller) the liner should heat up and let you know quickly that the controller is suspect.
 
You don't mention if you have a remote controller. I assume not, but if you do you have to re-pair it occasionally. With jacket not plugged in turn controller on and off 3 times, light flashes, then plug in jacket.

If controllers seem to work, but no heat you have a broken wire in the jacket or, if there is a fuse in the jacket, it may be blown.
 
ReSTored said:
You don't mention if you have a remote controller. I assume not, but if you do you have to re-pair it occasionally. With jacket not plugged in turn controller on and off 3 times, light flashes, then plug in jacket.

If controllers seem to work, but no heat you have a broken wire in the jacket or, if there is a fuse in the jacket, it may be blown.
Click to expand...
It is not a remote.
 
Sunday Rider said:
I have the same set up with the Eastern Beaver Centech II fuse block and dual portable controller. Two weeks ago mid ride my gloves and liner got cold. I turned both glove and liner dials off and then turned on again. That seemed to fix things. If you have the dual and both gloves and jacket liners don't heat than I think the controller has gone south.
Click to expand...
Thinking about it, my wireless controller battery had to be replaced. After replacing the battery, I had to resynch to wireless controller to the harness's controller. The controller on my jacket side has manual buttons to also control the heat. It would be worth checking its functionality.

Chris
 
Daboo said:
Thinking about it, my wireless controller battery had to be replaced. After replacing the battery, I had to resynch to wireless controller to the harness's controller.
Click to expand...
I've set a reminder on my <phone> calendar to do this annually now.
My two AAA batteries had just begun their sulfation in the remote HeatTroller, but hadn't yet corroded the springs or contacts. <whew!>
 
Daboo said:
Yeah but...the harness itself usually has an inline fuse as well. We tend to skip thinking of it because it is tucked away out of sight...but its there.

Chris
Click to expand...
That is assuming that you used the 'supplied' harness which when you wire to a fuseblock you may or may not. ;)
I wired from my fuseblock to a John Deere/BMW/Jastek socket to which I plug my controller into.
All my W&S controllers (non remote) have that type of male plug on the input and coax connectors out.
 
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