Final drive oil filler cap

OkieRider

OkieRider

Joined
Jun 1, 2020
Messages
591
Location
Oklahoma, USA
Bike
2006 ST1300
From wrenching on my ST, I can tell previous owner over tightened a lot of fasteners.

Today, using a torque wrench set to the correct setting, I snapped the cap off the oil filter plug. It may have been cracked as a result of trying to remove it. I don't know. But the torque wrench limited what I could apply and it broke anyway.

So, two problems.

First, there is a ring of make threads inside the female threaded opening on the cover. There's nothing to drill and back out.

Second, I need to know the thread size of the filter bolt so I can put a temp in.
 
BTDT. The filler cap is plastic, and sealing is via the o-ring. To get yours out, I'd use something to bear on the inner diameter and spin it out. There shouldn't be much torque on it as the threads shouldn't be loaded since the cover broke. If there's any part sticking out, use that as a lever. Sorry, I don't know the thread. You might call around and see if a dealer has that cap. This is the part, note how many different bikes it fits. I bought a spare, so I have on the next time I break it. ;)

Ignore me... I was thinking ST1100. Not sure on the ST1300. Sorry. :(
 
For clarification it would be best to attach a photo of the cap your having issues with
 
Igofar gave me the info necessary info.

Honda had the cap. It's a problem part.

Igofar gave me the technique to remove the thread rings. Penetrating oil, heat gun, chisel.

The white phone is real, man!!

I couldn't find my penetrating oil, so I've got to make a quick trip to the parts store. Of course, I live 15 miles from anyting but at least there is an O'Reilly's. my girlfriend is gone the other direction into the big city to pick up the Honda parts.
 
FYI. The fill plug is the same as used on a GL1800 Goldwing. Some Honda valve adjustment covers, also use the same plug. That might help finding a used plug.

Too late. Igofar beat me to it.
 
paulcb said:
Ignore me... I was thinking ST1100. Not sure on the ST1300. Sorry. :(
Click to expand...

The one on the ST 1300 is aluminum and very weak. It also seals against the o-ring. when I called the Honda shop, they said it's a problem part. They keep them in stock because it's used on many Honda machines. They are used as valve tappet covers. In fact, after the guy told me that, I checked, and I think my VTX 1300 has those for valve tappet covers.
 
The broke ring in the diff will come out easily unless its been cross threaded. Just need to find something to expand inside the hole like snap ring pliers or a small punch and tap lightly on the ring only the direction to remove it, once it moves it should come out easily
 
It too more time to get penetrating oil than it did to remove the ring.

Igofar method:
PB Blaster penetrating oil, heat gun, one rap on a small chisel with a rubber mallet. Boink.

Installing brake master throttle lock now while waiting for gf to come back with Honda part. :bannana:20200626_120804.jpg
 
I'm glad it was just a momentary problem for you.

It's only a problem part because no one occasionally greases and replaces the O-ring as recommended and the metal against metal draw up with a flattened deformed O-ring exceeds the strength of the aluminum cap and the wrench-turner's "feel" at the same time.

Of course Honda could take into account that people wouldn't read the service manual or the guy on the You Tube demonstration wouldn't know to tell the viewer to replace it and just make the O-ring thicker or the cap stronger. Maybe that would fix the problem until that thicker O-ring deforms.
 
Next time you can make your own penetrating oil. You can google it - there are a lot of recipes out there. IIRC, equal parts of acetone and auto trans fluid does it.
 
Al st1100 said:
There is no need for penetrating oil on the fill plug it is already covered in gear lube, it's like using pb blaster on you engine oil drain plug. :thumb:
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Uh, I'm not sure about that, Al. Certainly there would be a considerable amount of oil at the "far" end of the threads, where the plug meets the lubricant that it is keeping in there, but hopefully the "near" end of the plug - where you put the wrench on it - will be dry and could benefit from an application of penetrating oil if it is difficult to remove.

If the lubricant being contained by the plug was able to work its way through the full length of the threads, I think we would then have a drip.

Then again, it's possible that the O-ring or the flat washer (on the oil plug) is the point at which the lubricant gets stopped.

Michael
 
What I know is that it worked. If i was on the side of the road, I might be more inclined to go dry. But I wasn't, so I didn't.

Igofar is an amazing resource. He has spent a lot of time with me today. I got on the machine and it felt like the rear brake was locked. Indeed it was, but more importantly, the wheel was installed without a spacer. Most everything I have looked at on this machine's maintenance components had shown evidence of either neglect or ham-fisted work, or the kind of mistakes someone makes by being in a hurry. It was a dangerous condition that happened to manifest itself whole the bike was stationary. See pic. Note metal flake.

Igofar diagnosed the problem off a pic immediately. I sent him the pic because of the metal. He's given me part numbers and everything. My trip is delayed by a week, but nobody got hurt.


20200626_164436.jpg
 
OkieRider said:
I got on the machine and it felt like the rear brake was locked. Indeed it was, but more importantly, the wheel was installed without a spacer.
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How did someone even get the caliper on the disc and the wheel assembled? I have trouble sometimes WITH the spacer!
 
He had a proven with rear pads getting eaten up. They were clearly running at an angle, not parallel to the rotor.

My initial diagnosis was a frozen piston that i got working again. But, obviously, there was more to it. I'm replacing a lot of parts now just to be safe.
 
OkieRider said:
He had a proven with rear pads getting eaten up. They were clearly running at an angle, not parallel to the rotor.

My initial diagnosis was a frozen piston that i got working again. But, obviously, there was more to it. I'm replacing a lot of parts now just to be safe.
Click to expand...

Good job going over the bike you bought. As you can tell, you need to do this. Stay safe!
 
CYYJ said:
Uh, I'm not sure about that, Al. Certainly there would be a considerable amount of oil at the "far" end of the threads, where the plug meets the lubricant that it is keeping in there, but hopefully the "near" end of the plug - where you put the wrench on it - will be dry and could benefit from an application of penetrating oil if it is difficult to remove.

If the lubricant being contained by the plug was able to work its way through the full length of the threads, I think we would then have a drip.

Then again, it's possible that the O-ring or the flat washer (on the oil plug) is the point at which the lubricant gets stopped.

Michael
Click to expand...
The reason it's difficult to get it started to move is where it breaks the top thread burs a bit . There is no rust on the fill plug threads therefore I see not need for rust penetrant. Leave the o ring off and you will definitely have a leak. Next time you pull the drain plug out observe how much oil is there, all the way to the o ring. I have done this a number of times never needed a lube, it can't hurt but I can't see it help.
 
The rear end oil filler cap is the same as the valve cover caps on my 750 K4. I think the caps that break when trying to be removed were just victims of overzealous tightening when previously installed.
 
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