Error Code 26

phrip

Joined
Mar 10, 2021
Messages
6
Age
62
Location
Toronto
Hi Group,

I just returned from a long road trip, and on the return leg, F1 lit up, and I worked out it was error code 26 (2 long flashes, 6 short). From what little I have read, this could indicate the ECU?

Thing is, the bike ran like a top, even with the F1 light on. It would not illuminate after a restart, and I could run at lower speeds without it showing up, but as soon as I got much above 55mph, it would come back on. No change in operation.

She's recently started to idle really high at cold start up - 2500 rpm, or a bit more, and takes 10 or more minutes to settle into a proper idle speed. Not sure if that could relate to the above.

Any thoughts/advice would be very much appreciated!

Thanks!
 
It is my understanding that if you reset the code, you will get an illuminated FI lite the next time rpm's go over 5000 (I might be a bit off on the rpm number). Sounds like you might need a new ecu. Be aware that the ecu's are different up to 2007 and 2008 and beyond, should you find a used one. They are not interchangeable.
 
phrip said:
Hi Group,

I just returned from a long road trip, and on the return leg, F1 lit up, and I worked out it was error code 26 (2 long flashes, 6 short). From what little I have read, this could indicate the ECU?
Click to expand...


Search the site for code 25/26 error, more info there than you really want to see....

A common issue with the ST, more frequent with the pre 08 models. What year is yours, how many miles?

After you reset the code, you can try revving up the engine and most of the time FI will come back on over 4200 RPM.

And most of the time, not always, it is due as you suspected to a chip in the ECU (the knock sensing processing unit) that is fried, no repair available (yet, some are working on a fix, no promises).

Now, if you are electrically inclined, there is one step you might try.

There are two types of code 25/26 ECU related failures:

1) The chip is completely fried
2) The chip is about to be completely fried (so called Zombie mode)

There is a possibility that you might be able to prolong the life of a Zombie ECU by altering an ECU ground wire connection. Look for recent posts by oztrax on that, where he posted schematics on what to alter.

But have not seen yet a successful attempt at that (seems to have worked for a few Goldwings that have a similar problem though).

Or....you can join the growing club of ST Riders who have put a tape over their FI light and have had no issues keeping on riding, except for a slight mpg hit and slight loss of power perceived by some.
 
phrip said:
Hi Group,

I just returned from a long road trip, and on the return leg, F1 lit up, and I worked out it was error code 26 (2 long flashes, 6 short). From what little I have read, this could indicate the ECU?

Thing is, the bike ran like a top, even with the F1 light on. It would not illuminate after a restart, and I could run at lower speeds without it showing up, but as soon as I got much above 55mph, it would come back on. No change in operation.

She's recently started to idle really high at cold start up - 2500 rpm, or a bit more, and takes 10 or more minutes to settle into a proper idle speed. Not sure if that could relate to the above.

Any thoughts/advice would be very much appreciated!

Thanks!
Click to expand...
You're onto your FI light, the high idle is probably a sticking linkage with the "wax" valve, a little cleaning and lubrication should sort it, happened to mine as well.

IMG_3441.jpeg
 
SMSW said:
It is my understanding that if you reset the code, you will get an illuminated FI lite the next time rpm's go over 5000 (I might be a bit off on the rpm number). Sounds like you might need a new ecu. Be aware that the ecu's are different up to 2007 and 2008 and beyond, should you find a used one. They are not interchangeable.
Click to expand...
Thanks for this! Hoping not to need new ECU, but we'll see!
 
Code 26 is the right side knock sensor. It might be as Larry Fine said, a wiring issue. I have fixed this twice on my 2003 (most recently today).
The knock sensor wiring is directly behind the headers. Quite a few years ago, I had this code. I went to unplug the connector on the knock sensor and the connector fell apart. I was able to use a fast-on terminal to connect it, but that was a temporary solution at best. This connector is part of a sub-harness and you need to tear apart more motorcycle than I wanted to.... so I found a Honda car knock sensor cable that plugged right in to the sensor. I can't find the part number info, but I posted it on ST-Owners somewhere. If I find it, I will add it here. I had cut on end off the cable and splice it into the harness wire. My Code 26 didn't come back until last year.
I finally got the ST out and washed the cobwebs off and verified Code 26 was still happening. I tore off the tupperware and checked for connectivity between the connector and the ECM connector. It's a black wire. I found that my spice had failed and once I fixed that, I went for a ride and no more Code 26.
I know many people have had to replace the ECM for this, but it's possible it's an old motorcycle wiring issue.
 
And this is why I suggest to replace the sub wire harness FIRST before you start trying to replace the ECU.
Just because you replace a damaged end, does not mean that the harness has damage elsewhere.
These sub wire harnesses are about $50 dollars, and much cheaper than buying an ECU (if you can find one).
I've corrected several Code 26 issues by doing this, not to have them return.
Just saying....
 
sgio said:
so I found a Honda car knock sensor cable that plugged right in to the sensor. I can't find the part number info, but I posted it on ST-Owners somewhere. If I find it, I will add it here.
Click to expand...
I can help you out with that. The P/N that you used was a Honda automobile P/N 30531-P8F-A00.

You got it from the below thread;

Knock Sensor Connector | ST1300 Related

So I am having a F1 light issue that is 7 blinks. This is the ECT sensor. While trying to sort this, I decided I should fix the knock sensor wires, which looked really cooked. When I took the connector off the knock sensor, the connector fell into pieces. Has anyone found a source for these...
www.st-owners.com www.st-owners.com
 
phrip said:
Hi Group,

I just returned from a long road trip, and on the return leg, F1 lit up, and I worked out it was error code 26 (2 long flashes, 6 short). From what little I have read, this could indicate the ECU?

Thing is, the bike ran like a top, even with the F1 light on. It would not illuminate after a restart, and I could run at lower speeds without it showing up, but as soon as I got much above 55mph, it would come back on. No change in operation.

She's recently started to idle really high at cold start up - 2500 rpm, or a bit more, and takes 10 or more minutes to settle into a proper idle speed. Not sure if that could relate to the above.

Any thoughts/advice would be very much appreciated!

Thanks!
Click to expand...
phrip said:
Hi Group,

I just returned from a long road trip, and on the return leg, F1 lit up, and I worked out it was error code 26 (2 long flashes, 6 short). From what little I have read, this could indicate the ECU?

Thing is, the bike ran like a top, even with the F1 light on. It would not illuminate after a restart, and I could run at lower speeds without it showing up, but as soon as I got much above 55mph, it would come back on. No change in operation.

She's recently started to idle really high at cold start up - 2500 rpm, or a bit more, and takes 10 or more minutes to settle into a proper idle speed. Not sure if that could relate to the above.

Any thoughts/advice would be very much appreciated!

Thanks!
Click to expand...
High idle on cold start and code 26 issues.

2003 st1300 here, purchased in 2017 w/ 26k miles, currently at 65k miles.

I had the error code 26 since purchase, it never affected performance

Recently the bike started the high RPM on cold weather start up. Specifically: start engine, 2000rpm, after 2 minutes RPM goes to ~ 3500 to 4500 (variable), the RPM would go to standard idle after a period of time. The amount of time would vary by the outside temperature and the intensity of engine operation (higher RPM + Higher ambiant temperature takes less time).

The idle issue was resolved with replacement of the “Wax Assembly” (diagnosed through other threads on discussion boards).

Now here’s the interesting part - and a real bonus for me!

When the Bike was returned the code 26 issue was gone. I have now put enough miles since repair to confidently feel that the code 26 will not return. I do not work on my bike, I have used the same shop/dealership since purchase, they have no idea why the code 26 would disappear.

I will just take the win.
 
RobbieAG said:
What is a “Wax Assembly”? Do you have a part number?
Click to expand...

The Starter Valves actuators.

High rpms at cold start st1300 ? | ST1300 Related

My 07 st1300 when started cold revs to over 3000 rpms this occurs at 20 degrees and sometimes at 55 degrees. Revs for about 5 minutes then slows down. I understand how the cold start system functions. How can the cold start rpms adjusted ? Ride safe
www.st-owners.com www.st-owners.com
 
RobbieAG said:
What is a “Wax Assembly”? Do you have a part number?
Click to expand...
It is a servo whose movement is controlled by the fluid dynamics of wax. They are generically referred to as a wax motor.
Honda calls it an SE Thermal Valve.
You can find it on the throttle body parts schematic.
 
wondering if you might also be riding in cooler weather than before you had the wax idle repairs. My Blackbird has the sickness and when I took it for a rip in coldest weather yet, after sitting idle for a week the FI light did not come on at all, where as it always did in the five or six times before; sooner if I was riding it every few days and later if I let it sit for a while, but never corelating to any specific event of time after start, speed, rpm or load.
While the light was not on, I took it through various routines; bogging it down at low rpm, to running the rpm high at idle and moderate load, to running it as high as 6,700 under considerable load and couldn't make the light come on or effect any perceivable difference in performance, sound, idle smoothness or anything, and it remained off for various periods afterward.
When you say there was no affect in performance, I assume you base your comparison on the period between the time you aquired and riden the bike with the fault occuring, and the period since the repair that you had done.
My belief remains that this wild ass advance routine [in excess of 38 degrees] only occurs when TPS MAP et all inputs to the ECU that there's nothing going on and by allowing the advance to creep [and I use the word literally] up, a reduction in NOx can be recorded on a clip board in who care's anyways ville, hey, look out the window, was that another TDI 2.1 Jetta?
You better go and check it, and don't believe that feedback you're getting... and never under load or acceleration.
I also believe that in the course of manufacturing, there was a progression toward tuning out the effects of this fault event almost entirely with the possible exception of a slight increase in pulse width of the injector to ensure a not too lean condition, something only detectable by those who track [very carefully] gas mileage.
 
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