Engine cutting out with heat

Boon

Boon

Joined
Dec 7, 2017
Messages
16
Location
Kent, UK
Bike
ST1300
I’m having issues with my ‘13 cutting out in traffic on warmer days, (UK weather not tropics) assuming due to the heat. It just cuts the engine full stop. No stuttering, hesitation or any warning apart from the fact that I know the bike is hot. Constant 3 bars on the dash temp, never risen to 4+

First attempt was flush the coolant and check the stat, didn’t appear it was opening correctly so I removed it and has stayed out. No fix!

Next was fuel pump and fuel filter replaced. No fix!

I have had previously had a fault code 2 for the map sensor/pipe work and that has been cleaned out 6 months ago, also double checked this time round and still clear. There was also a code 9 for the IAT sensor. I have checked the sensor and wiring to be within spec, cleared the codes and they are not returning.

Recently balanced the starter valves, no fix!

Now im on to valve clearances and need to reshim 7 valves as recommended by a Honda garage

Got full service history and everything has been kept up to date, recent service and plug change

Any other pointers anybody have as I’m not convinced the reshim will not cure the issue

2002 with 74,000 miles

it cannot be ridden in ambient air temperatures above about 15deg centigrade in traffic for any more than about 10 minutes, it just cuts out. Motorway will run for longer but as soon as traffic builds the bike stops
 
Last edited:
Sounds like you may have a short in the ECM wires, a bad ground, or a failing ECM. Sounds like you have replaced the most obvious things.
 
Could be anything that Mike said, but something that came to my thought was the side stand wiring...near the exhaust? Loosening with exhaust heat? That will cut out the ignition. But after that I am thinking heat in the ECM or a ground. Thats a tough one, but a valve shim is mechanical and wont shut you down unless it drops a valve. :think1:
 
I'll be keeping an eye on this thread as my '05 with 70,000 miles as the same issue. I've been down the same path as you to no avail. Mine doesn't stall, but comes close.

Sent using Tapatalk
 
Check the kill switch. Is it malfuctioning? I'd start the bike and tap it, play with the switch to see if anything happens - also wiggle the harness. If you have 3 bars, it does not sound like a heat problem - unless heat is affecting something like the fuel pump, ecm or wiring harness.
 
Didn't the 02 have a wiring loom recall? Might that maybe fix or point out any loss of electrical power?
If your bike needs that recall I'd say it's a cheap and easy fix or at least a way to rule out a few things.
 
Check some/all of the following items:
Check the main ground wire attachment (under the left rear corner of the fuel tank) remove the bolt, clean all the wires, and replace.
Check the yellow ground connector boxes, (in the right front area of the front stay, near right mirror) and the 27 pin connector area on the left side of the bike near all the wiring (under left center panel).
If you have to dig deeper, there is also a yellow ground connector box WITHIN the wiring loom that crosses underneath the rear of the fuel tank just in front of the frame (this one is hidden).
These are often found burnt/melted/shorted out.
Also check the coil wires and their mounting bolts.
Good luck.
 
Igofar said:
Check some/all of the following items:
Check the main ground wire attachment (under the left rear corner of the fuel tank) remove the bolt, clean all the wires, and replace.
Check the yellow ground connector boxes, (in the right front area of the front stay, near right mirror) and the 27 pin connector area on the left side of the bike near all the wiring (under left center panel).
If you have to dig deeper, there is also a yellow ground connector box WITHIN the wiring loom that crosses underneath the rear of the fuel tank just in front of the frame (this one is hidden).
These are often found burnt/melted/shorted out.
Also check the coil wires and their mounting bolts.
Good luck.
Click to expand...
If you recall, that yellow buss is actually + positive. There is a - negative buss underneath that and the harness but it is pink.
My problems started similar to the OP's and ended up not starting at all eventually. Lots of good info here;
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?160067-Starting-Issues&highlight=
 
Could it be a possible issue with the gas tank breather being clogged? I have had other kinds of cycles where this has happened.
 
Brilliant thoughts everyone, thanks

i will check the wiring looms asap, I’m actually at work for a week now :( and the side stand switch/wiring is a great shout, wouldn’t have thought about that! If the handlebar cut out switch/ignition was causing the issue it would activate the HISS light on the dash and that doesn’t happen

To add to the question of it it fires up or I have to wait - No it doesn’t start back up, I have to wait 15-20 minutes, then it’s pot luck if it lasts for a few hundred yards or tens of miles. The most important factor seems to be if I get held up in traffic and loose the air flow over the bike

i have checked the fuel breather and seems to be clear, the fuel does get hot in both tanks though, really warm to the touch
 
Also been checked for recalls and apparently nothing due. Honda garage did admit there was a few issues with the earlier models and heat but wouldn’t elaborate any more, possibly due to me not spending any labour costs with then?!
 
Just had a thought on the side stand switch though.... it would prevent the starter working. My bike doesn’t, once it cuts out it’ll turn over just not fire up until it has cooled down, as though there is no fuel
 
I have a Saab 9.3.
It's known for problems with the camshaft sensor in case of heat....

Experienced that....

Maybe your crankshaft or camshaft sensor causes the problem.
Crankshaftsensor is easiest to access.
Camshaftsensor is below the throttlebody.

Just a wild guess..

Martin.
 
This reminds me of a newspaper column in which a doctor presented a patient's symptoms (usually for difficult to diagnose diseases) and the readers had to correctly identify the disease....
 
I don’t know the failure rate of the CKP (crankshaft sensor) on the ST, but checking for a compromised connector and wiring there might be prudent. Unplugging the CKP will allow the engine to turn over but not fire.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom