Cleaning ignition switch contacts?

mjc506

mjc506

Matt
Joined
May 1, 2021
Messages
313
Age
37
Location
Wales, UK
Bike
ST1300A2, CRF250L
Does anyone know/remember if the switch 'block' on the bottom of the ignition barrel can be removed? (Without drilling the one-way screws that fasten the ignition barrel itself)

Mine's intermittently not closing all three of the ignition-switched circuits (trying a couple times usually 'fixes' it) and I'm worried that one day it'll either cut while riding, or not close at all, so would like to flush it out with contact cleaner.

10 points for the first person who doesn't read and suggests their favourite lock lubricant :) bonus points if it includes graphite of something else conductive!
 
I don't want to loose any points, so I won't offer any suggestions....other than, graphite/powder will not mix well with the Grease that Honda uses on the tumblers in this assembly ;)
This is not a locksmith issue.
And no, you can't remove it without drilling the security hardware.
I've had good luck with blasting the area with plastic safe contact cleaner, blowing everything out with compressed air, then using some cleaner/lubricant/preservative like Tri-Flow, Break Free, or Silicone spray.
But again, don't use my suggestions, as I don't want to loose your points :rofl1:
 
Ah, foiled! :)

Yes, no issue with the barrel itself.

So, contact cleaner down through the barrel, then re-lube afterwards? Any trick to preventing (too much) lube getting into the contacts, other than using small amounts?
 
I had the same issue. The ignition lock and the electrical contacts are separate items. I removed the contacts during maintenance with the fairings off, and flooded the contacts with DeoxIT D5 spray cleaner and it fixed the problem.

Item 5 in the link 2008 Honda ST1300 A HANDLEBAR / TOP BRIDGE | Ron Ayers
 
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Hey Matt:

Paul is right. The ignition and the electrical contacts are two separate items. Servicing the key switch will have no effect on the contacts The contacts are contained in a black plastic unit held on to the ignition by 3 torx style screws. You will need a torx with a hole in the center (Harbor Freight has a set of them cheap). The contacts are not meant to be serviced, thus the special Torx but with the proper size you can unfasten the unit. I strongly suggest you buy a new contact rather than trying to fix the old one. It is quite the job just getting to the black contact housing and the fix I performed on my own unit only lasted a few months. The contact unit was NOT AVAILABLE for a year or two but, Partszilla now offers them.
it is around 70 dollars.

Bob
 
Many years ago (2002, if the properties date on the photos is correct) I took the ignition switch on my ST 1100 apart to clean the electrical contacts. My guess is that the design of the ST 1300 switch is probably similar, with the exception of the European market bikes that have the HISS anti-theft system (more complex).

Below are a series of photos showing the disassembly and cleaning process for a ST 1100 ignition switch.

Michael

The connection point for the switch, just behind the triple tree.
01_Connectors.jpg

Loosening the two Torx fasteners that hold the switch in place.
02_Loosening Torx.jpg

The Torx bolts.
03_Torx Bolts.jpg

The snap-on plastic cap at the bottom, removed.
04_Cap Removed.jpg

The dirty switch elements, before cleaning.
05_Dirty Switch.jpg

The portion of the switch that rotates.
06_Rotating portion.jpg

The various parts after cleaning, but before re-assembly.
08_Clean Parts.jpg

Ready for re-assembly.
09_Clean Detail.jpg

Lubricated prior to re-assembly.
10_Lubed.jpg

Almost completely reassembled.
11_Partly Assembled.jpg

Remember, this is a ST 1100 Ignition Switch!
 
Thank you very much, everyone. That's great info.

I had another look with my endoscope and now I know better what I'm looking at, I can see two of the security torx screws holding the contact 'block' to the barrel, and also the 'special screws' holding the whole assembly to the upper triple clamp. No way are those coming off without drilling! At least the torx screws on the contact block should come out ok.

I tried to get to the torx screws and remove in situ (long extension up from under the fairing), but couldn't get things lined up well enough. Probably for the best, no doubt I'd have lost a critical part... The bike's got its annual roadworthiness test next week, so I'll get the fairings off and sort it properly following that (and will try get some photos)

I'll be going for a clean/repair, as the part is ~$160USD over here, and doesn't actually seem available... I do have the HISS gubbins to contend with, but it looks like that's just a separate unit (antenna) around the top of the ignition barrel - if the key is in or (very) near the ignition switch, even in the 'off' or 'lock' positions, I can get the bike switched on with no HISS errors by backfeeding the right lines under the fusebox (essentially bypassing that contact block on the bottom of the ignition switch) so the ECU must just interrogate the key (via the antenna) upon powering up, it doesn't know what position the key is in.
 
Hey Matt:

To replace the electrical contacts module you will NOT have to drill out anything. There are three modified Torx screws holding the black module on to the bottom of the key switch. Two 10 inch extensions on a 1/4 inch drive socket guided upward with the benefit of a mirror will make the seemingly impossible task pretty easy.

Bob
 
retroman said:
You will need a torx with a hole in the center (Harbor Freight has a set of them cheap).
Click to expand...
Those screws are called Torx security screws and need Torx security bits. I got the same set of bits from Amazon that Larry's showing. HF may be cheaper especially if you can use one of their coupons.
 
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