Can't adjust the headlights high enough.

Are the bulbs properly seated in the headlight? Are you using the correct lamps? Have you checked the sag (fork and aft) to be sure the bike is in the correct attitude? If all of these questions get a yes, then I'm out of ideas. I've never seen the headlight motor so I don't know if it could have 'skipped a tooth' in the gearing.
 
There is a grey adjustment knob underneath the headlight, if you look up you'll see it.
 
Hayadenny said:
The adjuster knob won't raise the bulbs high enough.
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"high enough", according to "what" baseline?? Do you have another 1300 you're comparing to side by side? Comparing to your cage? Or simply, not high enough to some subjective measure?
 
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If you have determined the bulbs are correctly seated in the reflector and the range of electric motor adjustment is not sufficient to get the aim you want you can make a manual adjustment with an adjuster behind the headlight. The adjuster looks like a gear wheel or sprocket with a bolt protruding straight down out of it.

The picture below shows the adjuster just left center between the two bulb holders and up towards the top of the housing but note the adjuster is NOT in the correct orientation on the pictured headlight. The silver 12 mm bolt will point straight down in the 6 o'clock position, unlike the 3 o'clock orientation in the picture. It points down to the ground and can be manipulated from above the fender between the forks. I can't remember exactly the sizes but bolt head has a hollow also fits a JIS crosspoint screwdriver and maybe an allen key so it can be turned with either a socket or a screwdriver/allen key. Some pictures of this headlight circle the adjuster in yellow. Don't mess with the two adjuster bolts at the very bottom of the light.

The adjustment can easily be made without removing any fairing bits but you can't see it and do it at the same time. Look at the fitting in the picture or down through the forks from behind to ascertain it's location, then reach up from underneath the headlight and feel it. By hand direct the screwdriver or socket onto the bolt and then you can turn it.

This is a very fine adjustment and it takes a good many turns to move the beam. I found it best to do this in a darkened garage with the bike about 15 feet from the wall. I could then see which way to turn to move the beam and how the adjustment was progressing.

 
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I once asked the expert here how to aim the headlights. This is what @spiderman302 told me:
You do NOT have to remove any tupperware to do this.
Look between the ignition key switch and the speedometer you will see a support bar for the fairing. Above that you will see a toothed ring. that is the headlight adjustment motor. Off the left side of that toothed ring and 90 degrees to it is the manual adjustment screw. Set the electric adjustment to the mid point (dot straight down) then move the dot to 4 o'clock if you ride 1 up or to 8 o'clock if two up. 20 feet is enough. Measure the center point of the headlight (about 32 inches). Now draw a horizontal line 32 inches from the ground. Set the cutoff to be at or slightly below the line with the manual adjuster. You can get to it by reaching in from under the front of the bike by the forks. It is a 8 or 10 mm socket with long extensions. Now you can use the electric adjuster to fine tune it when you ride. The 8 o'clock position will give you more down adjustment if you get a rider in the back. or you can level out the bike with the pre-load adjustment instead. I set mine at the 4 position.

Measure the height of the fork lights and do the same thing with them.
I try to maximize distance while keeping glare to a minimum
It is amazing how far you can see with properly adjusted lights....
 
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I made the adjustment so I could run the high beams down just enough at night for maximum lighting distance without attracting flashing headlights from oncoming interstate traffic yet when on secondary roads and using use low beams I raised the beam up to maximize low beam distance. In the daytime I'd run them all the way down and use high beam without annoying the driver ahead of me.
 
See this post, it might give you a better idea of how to proceed: ST 1300 vertical adjustment for headlight.

You may also want to investigate where you have your rear preload adjuster set at - if you have a lot of preload cranked in, that raises the tail of the bike, which will result in the headlight pointing downward.

Michael
 
Hayadenny said:
The adjustment motor doesn't work all.
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My adjustment motor gave up early in the riding season. And Honda Canada wanted way too much for a new one. I could not get one delivered up here till ski season,,, so to get me goin',, I unplugged the wires to the motor,, and just manually adjusted the headlight to a decent position and left it there till winter service. I found that some riders who had done the same thing never did replace the motor. But I hate stuff that doesn't function, and so eventually changed it out at the same time I was installing the F2's and STS signal cancellation. Having the side fairings off,, made it all a lot easier,,, CAt'
 
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