Bought a 2003 ST1300, dubbed the "Lazarus project" - need advice!

[Lee T]

Hello,

First off, many, many thanks to all of you who have posted to this site over the years. I have spent hours reading various of the threads and learned a great deal! Still a lot to learn, but I think, unless lthe parts get too hard to find, that Lazarus and I will be together for the rest of my riding days.

Bought a 2003 ST1300 from an 80-year old guy who had it parked on a dirt storage lot, and dropped it a lot. I have rescued dogs for 40 years, but this is the first time I have rescued a motorcycle - just couldn't bare to see a once proud machine being treated like that. When I took it to the shop to get the tires mounted, the tech wouldn't talk to me until I explained I bought it like that, I didn't make it like that. After hearing the whole story, he kicked in some of the labor free. The guy sold it to me reasonably cheap, because he said he wanted me to have it, because I seemed like a "righteous motorcycle owner" -- I think he meant I would take care of it like it ought to be cared for. If so, he was right....
The paint looks amazingly good. Has a small dent in the tank, but I have slowly been making progress on that with a suction dent puller.
I think the original owner put 58,000 of the 60,500 miles on it, and took good care of it. I have the manuals, the tools are there and the pull out bags are still there. Runs well and pulls strong up to 105 MPH - had lots of throttle left, but not too much road left. Handles very well, after the work below was done. I was afraid to ride it until I had the basics done.

So far:

• - new tires - they were seriously the scariest things I have seen on a bike in my life.
• new brakes - they were completely shot
• new fork seals - he actually had put sealant around the forks.....
• oil change - old oil looked really good
• gear oil change - also looked really good
• new air filter - OK, that was filthy, but the air box was clean
• coolant tests good
• working on cleaning everything to "can eat off it" standards, but it's slow going
• replaced the broken right mirror, and repaired the cracked housing
• took off the kitchen drawer handle he had attached to the trunk lid (no kidding) and covered the holes with an Eagle and Flags metal emblem - had those on my Gold Wing

Still need to:

• fix the seat - duct tape on the front seat, not sure what's under it. the back seat looks good. I would like to replace it with a Corbin or something similar -- any suggestions?
• Replace the windshield. Thinking of a large, tinted Clearview - they are 15% off right now. Any thoughts/suggestions?
• get the tape residue off from where he attached the right mirror with duct tape (for real)
• put all the Tupperware back on -- he said he took it off, because he wants to see the motorcycle, not the plastic....
• get the black on the bottom of the bags back to black -- any suggestions? I am thinking go over it with magic eraser to take off all the oxidization, and then paint, but what kind of paint would you use?
• figure out the battery size. He put in an over tall battery, and the cover will not go over it. I don't want to see part of a wal-mart battery peeking out -- what is the correct battery to fit in with the factory cover?
• find a replacement maintenance cover for the right side. The small cover right behind the cylinder head. I texted him and he said it blew off while riding one day. It's an '03, so it is silver - haven't found one on E-bay - anyone know where to find one?
• get the fork seal oil stains off the front fender and forks - any ideas on how to do that?

What other maintenance should I be doing?

• I'm thinking graphite lube for all of the locks/switches?
• This winter I m thinking doing what I used to do every winter in college - pull the bike in the kitchen and strip it to frame and engine and clean and inspect. I didn't have a roommate for most of that time, not so sure the wife would appreciate it.

Please let me know if there is anything else that is critical. As I mentioned above, I didn't really ride it until I covered all of the key safety requirements, but I have been on Gold Wings most of my life ('82 Interstate for 35 years), so I'm assuming there are some things on the ST I am not aware of.

Thanks in advance for your help!

 

[jfheath]

Brakes. I assume you replaced the pads. The fluids will need flushing through and bleeding. But first, put bike on centre stand. Squeeze the front brake lever hard. Then press the rear brake pedal hard. Then go round and see which wheels are dragging.
Lie down on right hand side of bike, turn the back wheel with your foot. Push the front left caliper bracket forward towards the fork at the top. Rear wheel should stop turning. When you stop pushing, rear wheel should release instantly. Amount of movement of the front left caliper bracket ( the SMC ) should be minimal - 1 to 2 mm.

Clutch fluid will need changing.

Rear Suspension. Might need some fluid replacement. Bike on centre stand. Wind out the adjuster all the way. Count the clicks. How many ?
How many clicks to wind it in before it meets resistance ?
Wind it in about 7 clucks beyond that for a standard setting.

Any add on wiring ? check battery connections. Original bike has only the single cable clamped to the battery. I'd remove and make safe anything extra, until you can verify that it has been wired in correctly.

Really ought to check the final drive splines for wear to ensure correct Moly Paste has been applied.

Brake hoses where the meet the banjo bolts.

 

[Oldbikefixr]

I would pay some attention to the rubber hoses and tubes. They're 21 years old now. Same with all the electrical connections and grounds you can access....look for the usual corrosion, overheating, cracked insulation on and on.....

Interesting about the over-tall battery. When I refurbished my 1991 ST I discovered it was both near new and dimensionally almost correct....length and width anyway. It was only HALF the necessary height. It was elevated by a very well executed shaped, sanded, and painted styrofoam block. I wouldn't have noticed had I not removed it for inspection of the wiring in that area. No manufacturer's name on it but everything worked...no dragging starter, bright lights that didn't dim at idle.

 

[V4 Rider]

In no particular order.

Stock battery is Yuasa YTZ 14S. Beware unusually cheap ones on line. There are a lot of fake Yuasa batteries available.

Check splines between crown hub and rear wheel. Should be covered in minimum 60% molybdenum paste. Know local MrH dealer uses copperslip!!

For black plastic use Satin Black plastic paint - found it works well.

For tape try White Spirit / Turpentine, if that fails Brake Cleaner.

For fork oil marks try Brake Cleaner.

For seat look for a Sargent. If solo riding will sometimes find a front only.

Small covers are like hen's teeth. Keep looking.......

 

[Bikeric]

Welcome to the forum from Cornwall UK! Good luck with your new to you ST, lots of smiles ahead for you both.

 

[GhenghisKen]

I have a stock front+back seat in excellent condition if you are interested. Not sure about cross border shipping, but happy to see what we can do.

 

[motornut]

but this is the first time I have rescued a motorcycle - just couldn't bare to see a once proud machine being treated like that.

I completely understand what you mean, I got my 2004 back because of the memory's and because I could not stand to see what was done to it. My wife and I got a puppy from a mill and payed for her even though I know better, Could not leave her behind, she would have been knocked up if we had not got her out first.
Sometimes the recue is the right thing to do

 

[Andrew Shadow]

What other maintenance should I be doing?

Have a look through the below.

Maintenance Items Needed for a New (old) Bike​

 

[Lee T]

Brakes. I assume you replaced the pads. The fluids will need flushing through and bleeding. But first, put bike on centre stand. Squeeze the front brake lever hard. Then press the rear brake pedal hard. Then go round and see which wheels are dragging.
Lie down on right hand side of bike, turn the back wheel with your foot. Push the front left caliper bracket forward towards the fork at the top. Rear wheel should stop turning. When you stop pushing, rear wheel should release instantly. Amount of movement of the front left caliper bracket ( the SMC ) should be minimal - 1 to 2 mm.

Clutch fluid will need changing.

Rear Suspension. Might need some fluid replacement. Bike on centre stand. Wind out the adjuster all the way. Count the clicks. How many ?
How many clicks to wind it in before it meets resistance ?
Wind it in about 7 clucks beyond that for a standard setting.

Any add on wiring ? check battery connections. Original bike has only the single cable clamped to the battery. I'd remove and make safe anything extra, until you can verify that it has been wired in correctly.

Really ought to check the final drive splines for wear to ensure correct Moly Paste has been applied.

Brake hoses where the meet the banjo bolts.

Hello,

I had the shop do the full works on the brakes while they were in there for the tire change -- that's where they were kind enough to donate the labor if I bought the parts. I will do the checks you mention, just to be sure.
What kind of fluid goes in the rear suspension? I have seen mentions of that possibly being an issue.
Looks to be all original in terms of wiring and ad ons in general. other than the kitchen drawer pull handles (still trying to get over that one), I don't think the guy before me did anything to it.
I take it the procedure for checking the splines is in the big manual?

Thanks for the advice!

 

[Andrew Shadow]

What kind of fluid goes in the rear suspension?

Hydraulic jack oil works well in the preload adjuster.

 

[Lee T]

I would pay some attention to the rubber hoses and tubes. They're 21 years old now. Same with all the electrical connections and grounds you can access....look for the usual corrosion, overheating, cracked insulation on and on.....

Interesting about the over-tall battery. When I refurbished my 1991 ST I discovered it was both near new and dimensionally almost correct....length and width anyway. It was only HALF the necessary height. It was

I have been inspecting the hoses and tubes and wires as I go. So far all look healthy. Most of my cars are 20 years old when I buy them, so I usually just count on replacing everything made of rubber.
I would feel better about the overly tall battery if it weren't for the fact it is also a Wal-Mart battery. If it was showing "Interstate" branding, I might let it show.

 

[Lee T]

In no particular order.

Stock battery is Yuasa YTZ 14S. Beware unusually cheap ones on line. There are a lot of fake Yuasa batteries available.

Check splines between crown hub and rear wheel. Should be covered in minimum 60% molybdenum paste. Know local MrH dealer uses copperslip!!

For black plastic use Satin Black plastic paint - found it works well.

For tape try White Spirit / Turpentine, if that fails Brake Cleaner.

For fork oil marks try Brake Cleaner.

For seat look for a Sargent. If solo riding will sometimes find a front only.

Small covers are like hen's teeth. Keep looking.......

Is that paint an autozone thing, or an Amazon thing? I'm mostly solo - the wife gave up backseating long ago. My daughter wants to go at some point though.

 

[Lee T]

Welcome to the forum from Cornwall UK! Good luck with your new to you ST, lots of smiles ahead for you both.

Is that paint an autozone thing, or an Amazon thing? I'm mostly solo - the wife gave up backseating long ago. My daughter wants to go at some point though.

Welcome to the forum from Cornwall UK! Good luck with your new to you ST, lots of smiles ahead for you both.

Thanks! It's all about the "smiles to the gallon" I live in Colorado Springs, so the mountain twisties are just up the hill a bit. The ST is a bit better suited than the first year Valkyrie I had for about 7 years. Great bike on the highway, bit of a beast in the twisties.

 

[Lee T]

Have a look through the below.

Maintenance Items Needed for a New (old) Bike​

Great article, thanks!

 

[Lee T]

I have a stock front+back seat in excellent condition if you are interested. Not sure about cross border shipping, but happy to see what we can do.

Thanks, but if I change it, will be looking for something with a bit of a "flare". I test rode a 96 1100 that had a Corbin on it that felt pretty good.

 

[Lee T]

I completely understand what you mean, I got my 2004 back because of the memory's and because I could not stand to see what was done to it. My wife and I got a puppy from a mill and payed for her even though I know better, Could not leave her behind, she would have been knocked up if we had not got her out first.
Sometimes the recue is the right thing to do

I have a "pet theory" that when (in my case if) we get to the Pearly Gates, St Peter either has a Labrador, or possibly actually IS a labrador, and he says something to the effect of "what? Did you think that "even as ye do unto the least of these" was about humans?" I also bought back my '82 Interstate - made it a condition in the contract when I sold it that I had first dibs.

 

[draser]

but I have slowly been making progress on that with a suction dent puller.

Been using the glue method on a Shadow tank, I was able to pull several small dents. Bought the PDR glue sticks off of Amazon. I still have one small dent left in the tail of the tank (peanut shape) for which I'll have to try the rod method.

I had the shop do the full works on the brakes

Understood but, I'd still review the operation of the left front caliper and rear caliper to see if there's any "dragging" upon front brake release. Reason for that is, based on what I've read on motorcycle forums, some of the bike shops and mechanics may not be familiar with the 20yrs old brake system of the ST.

If the bike is rideable, the easiest brake system check is to take a short ride then stop using front brake only, then feel (carefully) rotors temperature. If the left rotor is hotter than the right one your left caliper is dragging. If the rear rotor is a lot hotter (radiates heat when getting hand closer) than the front that is due to:
a) the left rotor drag (which keeps the SMC actuated which applies the rear brake), or
b) the SMC piston does not come back to home position upon front brake release causing residual pressure to rear caliper, or
c) both a) and b).

Note: under normal operation (front left caliper not dragging and SMC fully retracted) the rear rotor will still be slightly hotter than the front (due to less cooling than the fronts).

 

[Lee T]

Been using the glue method on a Shadow tank, I was able to pull several small dents. Bought the PDR glue sticks off of Amazon. I still have one small dent left in the tail of the tank (peanut shape) for which I'll have to try the rod method.



Understood but, I'd still review the operation of the left front caliper and rear caliper to see if there's any "dragging" upon front brake release. Reason for that is, based on what I've read on motorcycle forums, some of the bike shops and mechanics may not be familiar with the 20yrs old brake system of the ST.

If the bike is rideable, the easiest brake system check is to take a short ride then stop using front brake only, then feel (carefully) rotors temperature. If the left rotor is hotter than the right one your left caliper is dragging. If the rear rotor is a lot hotter (radiates heat when getting hand closer) than the front that is due to:
a) the left rotor drag (which keeps the SMC actuated which applies the rear brake), or
b) the SMC piston does not come back to home position upon front brake release causing residual pressure to rear caliper, or
c) both a) and b).

Note: under normal operation (front left caliper not dragging and SMC fully retracted) the rear rotor will still be slightly hotter than the front (due to less cooling than the fronts).

thanks for all the info. we have a heat gun at work for checking the heat of aircraft brakes - might use that to get the data without relying on my perception of heat.