Bike not started for 17 years!

Joined
Mar 14, 2025
Messages
1
Age
54
Location
bristol
Bike
2004 Pan
Hi all, I am after some advice please. I have just purchased a 2004 Pan with 5500 miles on he clock, I know its very low. That's the good bit.
However it has not been started or turned a wheel for 17 years ! Barak obama was just elected and Gordon Brown was prime minister....
So what would you all recommenced I do first?????
Thanks
 
Got an older bike?

I'm betting you have a project on your hands, much like another new member here, but I still maintain you could have a really nice bike, if stock, not wrecked, and the gas tank isn't all rusted out inside.
The link above is a good starting point, others will chime in.
I'm also betting you will need to completely flush and bleed the clutch and brakes of the maple syrup-looking junk in the master cylinders that's likely in them now.
The Secondary Master Cylinder (Search Articles, top of page, for that term) will likely be all crudded up and need replacing. One step at a time, don't get impatient, ask for help, keep us posted, and don't ...I repeat, DON'T push it over a cliff.
 
Geez where to begin. That's a project. ALL fluids need to be replaced, new battery, new tires, thorough inspection of all electrical connections, any rubber hoses, check to see if mice got into the bike, re-lube axles, swing arm, rear splines, check if brake parts are sliding smoothly.

Personally, I would never buy a bike that hadn't been ridden regularly even if the mileage is higher.

Good luck with your project. Keep us up to date with what you find.
 
So what would you all recommenced I do first?????
Get the Honda Shop Manual, sit down in your favorite chair with a beverage of your choice and read @Sadlsor's link to Mainenance items for a new old bike. Then read some chapters in the manual. There are also articles on every maintenance task listed. Once you have some of the info, head for your shop and start wrenching.

Good Luck! We are here when you need help.

There are a number of guys not too far from you in the UK RAN list (Blue band atop this page, >Riding>RAN Lists>UK RAN List). > means 'click on'; RAN = Rider Assistance Network. You can always call one of those members with questions about your bike.
 
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It will be a great project/learning curve and a great bike after all. Hope you paid a right price for it though.
 
As already mentioned, do not try and start the bike with any old fuel in it. I would take it a step further and pull the fuel pump and sender unit out of the lower tank and have a look in that tank. There is a very good possibility that 17 years of condensation from sitting has done damage to that tank and the fuel pump/sender unit. I hope not, but if it has, it will be a setback that you'll have to take into consideration before going further.
 
From experience, the entire fuel system will need to be replaced. Gas tank may leak once cleaned....can of worms.
 
I see no need to invest any significant amount of effort or money until I know that I at least have a well running engine that doesn't sound like it is about to explode. I would not invest the time and money in repairing a major engine defect or replacing the engine. As such, the first thing that I would want to know is the condition of the engine. What I mean by that is that there is no point in spending money, time, and effort on new tires, a new battery, flushing fluids, new fuel pump, repairing a rusted fuel tank, etc., etc., only to find out that the total cost to get it back to a safe and reliable riding condition is beyond the amount of time and effort that I am willing to expend on it. I would get it started first. If the engine has suffered a major mechanical failure and needs a major repair or to be replaced I won't do that, so I need to know that up front. Once it is running I can further assess to determine whether going further is justified.

I would drain all of the fuel out of the fuel tank. Below is a link to a simple way to accomplish that. I wouldn't pull the fuel pump to examine it or the fuel tank at this point. Pay attention to the condition of the fuel that you drain out to see if it is full of water or not. There is no question that you will need to remove the fuel pump (and probably replace it) and inspect the inside of the fuel tank for rust if you intend to put this motorcycle back on the road but I wouldn't do it if I don't have to until I know whether or not the engine runs and how well it runs. There is always the possibility that you will have no choice but to do this in order to get it to start if the fuel pump is all rusted out but you have nothing to loose by trying to start it first.

I would put in two gallons of fresh fuel and make sure that there is engine oil in the crankcase and anti-freeze in the radiator and then connect a known good battery to it. I see no reason to spend money on a new battery at this point- Connecting a car battery to it using booster cables is fine at this point. The fuel pump is located in the lower fuel tank under the passenger seat. In a quiet environment, with the engine kill switch in the run position, turn the ignition switch on and listen for the fuel pump. It should run for about three seconds after the key is turned on. If it doesn't you will need to diagnose why, which may well be a rusted fuel pump/tank. If the fuel pump does come to life you have nothing to loose in trying to start the engine. Crank the engine over and see if it will start and run. If it won't crank or start and run there is no point doing anything else until the cause of this is determined, which again may well bring me back to the rusted out fuel pump scenario. If it does start and run I can then further evaluate it to determine how well it runs and if there is any obvious major defect that needs to be further investigated. If the engine runs fine then I would move on to evaluating the rest of the motorcycle, including examining the inside of the fuel tank and the fuel pump. I would then proceed with going over the whole motorcycle to see what needs to be replaced or repaired. After that evaluation has been completed, and if it is still worth investing my time and money in to it, then the end goal becomes going over it from end to the other and accomplishing all of the maintenance items that will need to be brought up to date to make this a reliable and enjoyable ride.

Draining The Fuel Tanks
 
I see no need to invest any significant amount of effort or money until I know that I at least have a well running engine that doesn't sound like it is about to explode. I would not invest the time and money in repairing a major engine defect or replacing the engine. As such, the first thing that I would want to know is the condition of the engine. What I mean by that is that there is no point in spending money, time, and effort on new tires, a new battery, flushing fluids, new fuel pump, repairing a rusted fuel tank, etc., etc., only to find out that the total cost to get it back to a safe and reliable riding condition is beyond the amount of time and effort that I am willing to expend on it. I would get it started first. If the engine has suffered a major mechanical failure and needs a major repair or to be replaced I won't do that, so I need to know that up front. Once it is running I can further assess to determine whether going further is justified.

I would drain all of the fuel out of the fuel tank. Below is a link to a simple way to accomplish that. I wouldn't pull the fuel pump to examine it or the fuel tank at this point. Pay attention to the condition of the fuel that you drain out to see if it is full of water or not. There is no question that you will need to remove the fuel pump (and probably replace it) and inspect the inside of the fuel tank for rust if you intend to put this motorcycle back on the road but I wouldn't do it if I don't have to until I know whether or not the engine runs and how well it runs. There is always the possibility that you will have no choice but to do this in order to get it to start if the fuel pump is all rusted out but you have nothing to loose by trying to start it first.

I would put in two gallons of fresh fuel and make sure that there is engine oil in the crankcase and anti-freeze in the radiator and then connect a known good battery to it. I see no reason to spend money on a new battery at this point- Connecting a car battery to it using booster cables is fine at this point. The fuel pump is located in the lower fuel tank under the passenger seat. In a quiet environment, with the engine kill switch in the run position, turn the ignition switch on and listen for the fuel pump. It should run for about three seconds after the key is turned on. If it doesn't you will need to diagnose why, which may well be a rusted fuel pump/tank. If the fuel pump does come to life you have nothing to loose in trying to start the engine. Crank the engine over and see if it will start and run. If it won't crank or start and run there is no point doing anything else until the cause of this is determined, which again may well bring me back to the rusted out fuel pump scenario. If it does start and run I can then further evaluate it to determine how well it runs and if there is any obvious major defect that needs to be further investigated. If the engine runs fine then I would move on to evaluating the rest of the motorcycle, including examining the inside of the fuel tank and the fuel pump. I would then proceed with going over the whole motorcycle to see what needs to be replaced or repaired. After that evaluation has been completed, and if it is still worth investing my time and money in to it, then the end goal becomes going over it from end to the other and accomplishing all of the maintenance items that will need to be brought up to date to make this a reliable and enjoyable ride.

Draining The Fuel Tanks
so if you dont inspect the lower tank and if there is a tank full of crap/corrosion, there is a good chance you will send that in to the injectors, making them useless.
 
First off, how was it stored. Is it a barn find, outside under a tarp, under a carport, in a nice dry garage? That will have a lot of concerns for long term cleaning expectations and where to start.
 
Good for you. If it were my purchase #1- Inspect wiring integrity (corrosion, frayed wires, etc) - I would remove fuses for fuel pump-injectors, key on- lights etc working? Next, spark plugs out, I would install new oil & filter, oil prime the engine bearings, etc. Then, remove throttle bodies and old fuel pump. Flush fuel system, install new fuel pump & filters, install throttle bodies, new air filter, new spark plugs. Flush cooling system. Verify bike is in neutral, start her up. Proceed with other items (brake system inspection, new fluids for brake & clutch). I'm just thinking out loud to myself.
 
The rings being not shot would amaze me, or the rust line now marking up the cylinder. Lube and turn over by hand imho
I would be amazed if that engine will run any length of time.......but.....you never know. Keep us posted
 
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