anyone bought a non-OEM radiator cap lately (ST1100)?
- Thread starter dwalby
- Start date
Here are the numbers I have, but they are probably as old as yours:
Stant 11233/11242
90-96Accord 2.2L 16psi BK7031406 '94 Accord 2.2 engine
Gates 31336
NAPA 703-2443, 13psi
NAPA 703-1406, 16psi
NAPA BK 7031406
Honda 19045-MY3-621
NAPA 16PSI, #703-1712 (also for the Honda Accord 2.2L)
Stant 11233/11242
90-96Accord 2.2L 16psi BK7031406 '94 Accord 2.2 engine
Gates 31336
NAPA 703-2443, 13psi
NAPA 703-1406, 16psi
NAPA BK 7031406
Honda 19045-MY3-621
NAPA 16PSI, #703-1712 (also for the Honda Accord 2.2L)
Hi Dean,
Pep Boys has the stant 10233, which appears to be the same as the 11233. Napa bk7031406 search yields no result, but the bk7031712 number shows a picture of a Stant "233", so that also looks like an option. Auto Zone has a Duralast 7516 that is referenced for the Accord, but in searching multiple sites I noticed that there's two different radiators for the '94 accord. Caps for the Toyo radiator look like the one we want, caps for Nippondenso don't look the same (too short IIRC). Surprised that was never mentioned before in these threads.
One other question I have about these replacements is they all appear from the pictures to have "ears" instead of being round like the OEM cap. Not looking at it right now, but I remember there being some plastic bracket interference on the left side that limits the working diameter of the cap. I'm assuming there's just enough clearance for the "ears", or else these alternate parts wouldn't have been recommended. Anyone have any input on that??
I'm gonna pick up the Stant today at Pep Boys and try it out, will report back with results.
thanks,
Doug
Pep Boys has the stant 10233, which appears to be the same as the 11233. Napa bk7031406 search yields no result, but the bk7031712 number shows a picture of a Stant "233", so that also looks like an option. Auto Zone has a Duralast 7516 that is referenced for the Accord, but in searching multiple sites I noticed that there's two different radiators for the '94 accord. Caps for the Toyo radiator look like the one we want, caps for Nippondenso don't look the same (too short IIRC). Surprised that was never mentioned before in these threads.
One other question I have about these replacements is they all appear from the pictures to have "ears" instead of being round like the OEM cap. Not looking at it right now, but I remember there being some plastic bracket interference on the left side that limits the working diameter of the cap. I'm assuming there's just enough clearance for the "ears", or else these alternate parts wouldn't have been recommended. Anyone have any input on that??
I'm gonna pick up the Stant today at Pep Boys and try it out, will report back with results.
thanks,
Doug
Looks like about 1/4 inch or so clearance to the fork tube to the left and a bit more to a mounting tab Doug. Oughta be ok?
I just got one with the ears and there is plenty of room to install and turn the cap.
Dean, your comment has me completely puzzled, the fork tube has nothing to do with it, I suspect you mis-spoke. There is a mounting tab to the left, that's the part I was asking about earlier, or more specifically the plastic piece that attaches to that tab.
It also occurred to me that because you guys aren't the original owners, the plastic shroud that attaches to that mounting tab may have already been removed by a PO.
Here's a picture, there's definitely no room to clear that plastic bracket on the left, but its easy to remove it, install the cap, and put the plastic shroud back in place. If the ears are at 6/12 o'clock it won't interfere, if the ears are at 3/9 o'clock then the plastic bit will have to go, or I'll have to get the Honda cap.
Paul, does this picture look like yours, or is the plastic shroud on the left missing from yours??
It also occurred to me that because you guys aren't the original owners, the plastic shroud that attaches to that mounting tab may have already been removed by a PO.
Here's a picture, there's definitely no room to clear that plastic bracket on the left, but its easy to remove it, install the cap, and put the plastic shroud back in place. If the ears are at 6/12 o'clock it won't interfere, if the ears are at 3/9 o'clock then the plastic bit will have to go, or I'll have to get the Honda cap.
Paul, does this picture look like yours, or is the plastic shroud on the left missing from yours??
Attachments
Looks like mine but I don’t remember that plastic bracket on the left? IIRC, I didn’t have any clearance issues with the ears. Sorry, I don’t have any pics.
Doug : I just trimmed off one of the ears that interfered.
yeah, that's what I expected to hear, there's no way you could fit the ears in there with the plastic bracket attached, so it has to be missing on yours. So that's the question, is that shroud something that can be removed with no consequences, seems like the answer is probably yes. Best case scenario is the ears end up at 12/6 o'clock and I can put the bracket back in place whether its really necessary or not.
Yea, that could have been clearer. That fork tube clearance to the radiator cap is when it's at full turn right.
I took that plastic shroud off at some point on the 91 which I'm looking at, as it has been sitting naked in the garage, and haven't put it back on. If I had put it back it would look just like your picture.
So we'll just call you Jim VanGogh
that was another option I considered, but will probably wait until the new cap proves to be sealing properly before that step.
Last edited:
STraymond
Site Supporter
I remember that I did install a Stant with the ears, but went back to OEM because of the clearance issues.
Now I’m questioning my sanity... you guys are going to make me pull my plastic aren’t you? 
OK, all is good with the Stant 10233. Ears align at 12/6 o'clock position so no interference with the plastic shroud after locking it down, don't need to cut any ears off. Just have to remove the screw that holds the shroud in place to clear the ears when opening/closing cap, then put the screw back in when the cap is in closed position. I suspect removing the shroud wouldn't make any difference, it appears to be some sort of air shield to possibly keep ambient air from blowing through the T-stat housing area from the front of the bike. Maybe the T-stat has trouble opening fully without the shroud because the airflow cools it a bit, dunno.
Just trim and ear, Doug - no big deal. And Merry Christmas.