A little help, please folks!

[Jamesengland]

Hi Folks. This is my first post here after joining this forum and I’d appreciate some wisdom here! I have a year 2000 ST1100 which done a genuine 43,000 miles. I suspect it’s running on the OEM timing belt. Whilst the mileage is low, the time isn’t. So I want to replace the timing belt. I’ve done this on a 1975 GL1000 ‘Plain Jane’ years ago and seem to recall it had two belts but I see the ST has one long belt. Having seen the variance in prices from reasonable to predatory, I read that Gates manufacture the OEM belts for Honda and that the correct belt for the bike is the T325 which is available at £20, as opposed to upwards of £100 from some eBay sellers.

Could anyone advise whether the Gate T325 is indeed the correct belt, before I start on the job?

Also, looking at YouTube videos about doing this, and from previous experience with the GL, the timing marks can drift off slightly as the old belt is removed, albeit by 1/2 tooth or whatever, mainly due to the handling in pulling the old belt off (especially from the drive pulley where space is tighter). I’m thinking of getting all timing marks lined up and tying down the rear brake lever to a ground anchor…then simply cutting the old belt with sharp steel shears and removing the bits. I did do this on the two belts (I think it was two…) of the GL. At this point everytning would be lined up, unless the camshafts have moved slightly and it would be easier to remove the old belt.

Does anyone who has done this job have any views on the above and confirmation re the Gates belt please?

 

[Andrew Shadow]

That is the correct Gates P/N. I suggest that you buy it quickly. Honda no longer sells them and Gates has stopped producing them as well from what has been posted on this forum. They are/will become scarce.

See below for everything that you want to know about the timing belt.

ST1100 - Timing belt change - Full walkthrough​

ST1100 - Parts for timing belt change?​

ST1100 - Timing Belt Replacement​

 

[Uncle Phil]

Up to you, but I would not be concerned over changing the timing belt on a ST1100 engine with 40,000 miles on it.
One of my 4 is 2001 with 84,000+ miles on it and it still has the original timing belt.
I have 4 'used' timing belts hanging on a nail (two are 97 vintage changed at 100,000 miles).
If I put them and a brand new on a table, you probably could not pick out which one was the new one.
These belts (thankfully) are way overengineered and will last a lot longer that we will.
The 'half a tooth off' does not cause any issues AFAIK.
Gates T-325 is an alternate number that has been used.

 

[Jamesengland]

Thank you! I appreciate your responding. That’s very helpful.

 

[Roger]

When I changed mine, I had the choice from David Silver's of a Honda part number or a cheaper 'pattern part' which came smothered in Triumph stickers.

 

[Al st1100]

Bake lever in gear does not stop the cam from turning when you cut the belt. One cam most always wants to turn.

 

[Uncle Phil]

Getting it off without cutting is easy - getting it back on can be 'interesting'.

 

[dwalby]

no need to cut the belt, release the tensioner and the belt comes off easily.

Agree with Al, your proposed brake pedal technique will hold the crank in place, but once the belt is removed the cams are both free to turn as they please.

If you've done this type of job before its easy, nothing complicated about it regarding the belt itself. The service manual will tell you to take the clutch cover off the bike to gain access, but its not necessary. Pull the front cover off and then when you need to put it back on you'll need to do a little grinding with a Dremel tool so it will go back on easily with the clutch cover still in place. There are writeups about that somewhere online, but I'm not sure where, probably in one of the links Andrew posted earlier.

For reasons that were never clear to me, when I did mine years ago it was impossible for me to align the timing marks perfectly, one cam would be about 1/2 tooth off. I tried everything, and my only two choices were 1/2 tooth off one way or the other, so I chose the way where if the belt were to stretch over time then the 1/2 tooth mis-alignment would move towards perfectly aligned. I've done a fair number of TBs over the years so I know the procedure, but for some reason mine just wouldn't line up right. When I took the old belt off everything was aligned, but I changed all the pulleys and the belt and when I rotated the crank the new stuff refused to align perfectly. If this happens to you its no big deal, the engine won't mind things being off by 1/2 tooth.

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

Tips:
- remove the left driven pulley guide/cover and mark the cover to locate the index mark under it for reference later, and reinstall the washer and bolt for security during the belt R&R.
- put a small wood wedge under both driven pulleys to freeze them in place at their index marks.
- count the number of belt teeth between the driven pulleys’ index marks to duplicate during new belt install (51 on my ST). [see image below]
- loosen the tensioner bolt carefully, don’t follow the Service Manual on this - don’t turn the crankshaft to move the tensioner while its bolt is loosened, just push down by hand (large screwdriver on the spring hook/tab) and tighten the bolt when the belt can be easily removed.
- follow the Service Manual’s last step for a new belt install carefully (sequence before final tensioner bolt tightening/torque).

FWIW YMMV [minor edits made for clarity]

John

 

[mr.m]

What dose FWIW YMMV mean? Reading this thread has me nervous I have 98,000 on my 93's belt was looking to get 30,000 more. Is this foolish?

 

[Uncle Phil]

FWIW - For What It'd Worth
YMMV - Your Mileage May Vary
Some have run the belt up that far without incident.
I only know of 1 person who said their ST1100 timing belt broke but would not give any details as to why/how/etc.
I usually change mine at 100,000 miles (not KMs) but the belt that comes out looks like new.
The greater issue will be the water pump or the pulleys at that mileage, not the belt.
I've had water pump failures at 130,000+ miles (catastrophic) and 140,000+ miles (leak).

 

[ST1100Y]

Just rely on the markings...

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

follow the Service Manual’s last step for a new belt install carefully (sequence before final tensioner bolt tightening/torque).

Just rely on the markings...

Note that final tensioning procedure for a new belt begins at the bottom of the page Martin posted, continuing on the next page (8-14)

 

[ST1100Y]

Note that final tensioning procedure for a new belt begins at the bottom of the page Martin posted, continuing on the next page (8-14)

Yeah, wonder why folks would actually attempt such a job without the manual present... too many things could go wrong without step by step instructions...
I did 3 t/belt replacements and still rely 1:1 on the book...

 

[Odie1]

Take John O's advice - count the and mark the teeth....51.... line it up that way and put it on.

Or spend an hour or so putting the belt on multiple times and always being one tooth off.

Been there, done that..... used the T-shirt as an oil rag.

Odie1

 

[Bmacleod]

Tips:
- remove the left driven pulley guide/cover and mark the cover to locate the index mark under it for reference later, and reinstall the washer and bolt for security during the belt R&R.
- put a small wood wedge under both driven pulleys to freeze them in place at their index marks.
- count the number of belt teeth between the driven pulleys’ index marks to duplicate during new belt install (51 on my ST). [see image below]
- loosen the tensioner bolt carefully, don’t follow the Service Manual on this - don’t turn the crankshaft to move the tensioner while its bolt is loosened, just push down by hand (large screwdriver on the spring hook/tab) and tighten the bolt when the belt can be easily removed.
- follow the Service Manual’s last step for a new belt install carefully (sequence before final tensioner bolt tightening/torque).

FWIW YMMV [minor edits made for clarity]

John

This is slick... foolproof