2008 electical issues

[so-so]

I have recently acquired a 2008 ST1300 ABS which was sold new here in NZ.
This bike has sat in a shed for 2 years. the previous owner stated that it was fine when parked but he fitted a new battery recently only to find a problem.
The bike starts and drives fine but....
The headlight, Windscreen, Digital meter, neutral/oil/battery etc lights, speedo, tacho, stop/tail light/ horn are all not working.
The clock is working and the dash does light up briefly when the key is turned.
Indicators work fine.
I have seen some discussions about this issue but they all seem to end up down rabbit holes of added accessories and ripoff dealers.
The only modification is some led front indicators
I have stripped all the plastics off to troubleshoot.
The battery is hooked up to a jump starter so that's not the issue.
60A fusible link is fine
30A main fuse is fine
All fuses in both fuse boxes are fine
There is no power to following fuses 10A ABS MAIN, 10A POSITION METER LIGHT TAIL, 10A H/LIGHT
All other fuses have power to them.
I have pulled the white 24pin plug apart. the grease was pretty dirty so I have cleaned it up. All wires look fine.
The yellow 14 pin earth bus looks fine,
The main earth under the tank looks fine.
Any ideas as to what is going on or where to look next would be greatly appreciated.

 

[so-so]

With a bit more poking around I have found that the red/blue wire coming out of the ignition switch has no current.
I made a jumper wire from the red constant power to the red/blue wire and suddenly everything works.
So now the mission is to repair or replace the ignition switch. Its a HISS one so I'm sure that's going to be fun.
Anybody pulled one of these out?

 

[jfheath]

I believe that the HISS antenna is a separate item that fits around the top of the ignition switch.

But it may not be the lock that you need. You might just need the base unit which has the wires coming from it. I assume therefore that is the actual switch. On the Australian and Uk fiches that is about £110.

But you could do with making the connection and checking that the HISS LED actually goes out within 2 seconds of 'turning on'. They key has to be in, or right next to the ignition key slot, so that it can detect the chip. If the LED doesn't go out, then there may be another issue. Note that the red stop switch needs to be set to run.

 

[so-so]

I believe that the HISS antenna is a separate item that fits around the top of the ignition switch.

But it may not be the lock that you need. You might just need the base unit which has the wires coming from it. I assume therefore that is the actual switch. On the Australian and Uk fiches that is about £110.

But you could do with making the connection and checking that the HISS LED actually goes out within 2 seconds of 'turning on'. They key has to be in, or right next to the ignition key slot, so that it can detect the chip. If the LED doesn't go out, then there may be another issue. Note that the red stop switch needs to be set to run.

The red LED does go out after turning on and the engine does start so I believe everything in the top of the ignition assembly works correctly.
I am thinking the problem lies in the bottom of the unit where the wires attach to it.
There are 5 terminals which feed into 4 wires. The IGN1 terminal has a red/blue wire which seems to power fuses A and D as well as the windscreen relay.
There is no power to this wire which explains why none of the circuits work.
I need to get a T10 security Torx bit to remove the bottom cover so I can have a look at the terminals

 

[jfheath]

I agree. That switch carries very large currents and is protected only by the ;arge main fuses. The Red leads come from the 30A fuse on the starter solenoid near to the battery.

Diagram on the left shows the connector at the base of the ignition switch. The bottom connector is to connect it to the harness.
Diagram on the right shows which circuits are connecetd with the ignition key in different positions.
SO if the key is set to ON (rather than accessories), Read the 'On' row - 3rd row down. Bat1 is connected to IGN1. BAT2 2 is conencted to ACC and 1G2 - (I think that should be IG2 !) Those same codes are shwon ont he connector at the top of the diagram on the left - so you can match that info with the colour of the wires.

When on, they provide power to the ignition circuits.
The Red/White lead (Acc) goes to Fuse F - 15A Acessory and Hazzard Lights
Blue/Orange Feeds Fuse D - 10A Starter / Bank Angle Sensor
Red / Black Feeds fuses A, B and E

Red / Black also triggers the Main Stop Relay (which turns on power for the horn and brake light circuits..

A=ABS 10A
B=various warning lights and tail light. (10A)
E=Headlight (10A)

You may well be able to repair the connection - I've never delved into that particular circuit, but if there are signs of poor contact, that is going to increase the resistance and generate a lot of heat. With that much current on the internal switch mechanism that could leave you stranded.

It looks like the part you need is 35101-MCS-G01. And it looks like one of the Red leads is not providing power to that switch.

Or it could be the red lead to that 4P connector that is faulty - which is a much easier repair - but the connectors need to be quite heavy duty. I would guess that they are 6.3mm spades rather than the mini 2.8mm

Diagrams obtained from here - a post by @SpikingJC

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/th...atics-for-03-07-standard.124038/#post-2531108

Head for post #3 and select the After 2007, Deluxe diagram. I think it is the USA diagram, which does have some differences from the UK version (it doesn't show the wiring for the headlight flash / passing switch) - for example, but mostly it is the same.