I have a coworker who just purchased an SV and will be bringing it over for tires. I do not have track side stands but I do have a car floor jack. Would it be safe to lift and remove one wheel at a time this way?
2006 SV650
- Thread starter cjames431
- Start date
The rear is easy with the center stand, and you can do the front like this:
OP
OP
Unfortunately, there is no center standThe rear is easy with the center stand, and you can do the front like this:
Milk crate...
Side stand pushed up on it, and place a crutch brace, piece of 2x4, or prop on the opposite side.
Or push it up on the side stand, clamp front brake, put it in gear, and tie it off to a pole or non movable object with a tie down.
Or push it up on the side stand, clamp front brake, put it in gear, and tie it off to a pole or non movable object with a tie down.
I think it would be worth their while investing in some bobbins and a paddock stand.
It'd be a whole lot easier and would make other maintenance easier too.
One tip over will cost them more than the stand.
Upt.
It'd be a whole lot easier and would make other maintenance easier too.
One tip over will cost them more than the stand.
Upt.
RobbieAG
Robert
It would be safe if you secure it from above. For my 2017 SV650, I use some ratchet straps around the steel I-beam in my garage. Make sure you use some wood between the jack and the bike.
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OP
OP
New tires, oil and filter and air filter. Bled the brakes. Had to remove the clutch lever assembly from the handle bars to clean and push the plunger back. The brake fluid was brown.
@Igofar, you are the man! We used duct tape to mount the new Michelin PR4s and boy was that slick. No need for a tire bar. Just push the first bead over the rim, start the second, tape the remaining bead down to the first and push. Slicker n snot.
Question about chain tensioning. From what we found online slack is 0.8-1.2in. I adjusted tension until deflection down was about 0.25in and up was about 0.75in for a total of 0.8ish. Is this correct? I’ve not dealt with a chain before.
@Igofar, you are the man! We used duct tape to mount the new Michelin PR4s and boy was that slick. No need for a tire bar. Just push the first bead over the rim, start the second, tape the remaining bead down to the first and push. Slicker n snot.
Question about chain tensioning. From what we found online slack is 0.8-1.2in. I adjusted tension until deflection down was about 0.25in and up was about 0.75in for a total of 0.8ish. Is this correct? I’ve not dealt with a chain before.
Make sure you check the chain at its tightest spot. So spin it around and keep checking until you find it. Suzuki probably tell you to check the slack on the sidestand. Check it so it's right as per their directions and then check that measurement on the ramp so you can replicate easily next time.New tires, oil and filter and air filter. Bled the brakes. Had to remove the clutch lever assembly from the handle bars to clean and push the plunger back. The brake fluid was brown.
@Igofar, you are the man! We used duct tape to mount the new Michelin PR4s and boy was that slick. No need for a tire bar. Just push the first bead over the rim, start the second, tape the remaining bead down to the first and push. Slicker n snot.
Question about chain tensioning. From what we found online slack is 0.8-1.2in. I adjusted tension until deflection down was about 0.25in and up was about 0.75in for a total of 0.8ish. Is this correct? I’ve not dealt with a chain before.
They suggest doing it on the sidestand for the Strom, probably because centre stands don't come fitted from the factory.
Upt.
The standard advice is to adjust chains per the instructions but to the looser end of spec, not to minimum.