07 ST 1300 Wiring issue

[Anna'sDad]

HISS light wasn't blinking

Oops, the HISS wiring diagrams are... err, um, well... still on the drawing board?
You should find the Wiring Schematic mostly useful, except when it comes to the HISS.
The motorbikes sold in the US did not utilize the HISS anti-theft device, and thus I never thought about including it in the diagram.

However I imagine that most of the sub circuits (windscreen circuit for example) probably remain the same.

(it just cuts off the connection to the ignition right? without voltage, it should kill the bike ignition).

The Run/Stop switch circuit controls much more than the ignition, at least for the non HISS version in the US.
When you look at the Wiring Schematic (see Post No. 18) you can see:

The Run/Stop switch passes power (+12vdc) to:

1. The Engine Start Button
2. Bank Angle Sensor Relay (coil)

The Bank Angle Sensor Relay passes power (+12vdc) to:

1. Fuel Cut-Off Relay
2. Ignition Coil, Cyl. 1&3
3. Ignition Coil, Cyl. 2&4
4. Fuel Injectors 1,2,3,4
5. Purge Control Solenoid
6. Exhaust Air Injector Solenoid
7. O2 Sensor, Cyl. 1&3
8. O2 Sensor, Cyl.2&4
9. Engine Control Module

When bike is on, i cannot kill the bike using the kill switch. (buzzing sound is heard from the battery area).

So, the buzzing you're hearing may be the Bank Angle Sensor Relay, which may be at fault, or it may just be a symptom of the problem that started with the short circuiting of the black conductors (wires).

I think you have a fair bit of research and discovery in your future before you have a satisfactory explanation of exactly what when wrong when the wires were shorted. With that knowledge, not only will you affect the repair of the problem, but also have the confidence that your repair will not have contributed to additional problems down the road.

 

[minhtri2002]

Hi, i was cleaning up the places under the headlight cowl (Front cowl), and i saw this 2 wire that are not connected to anything.

Stupid me, touched the two wires while the ignition is on and i heard a “pop” sound. now the bike doesnt crank

The speedo seems to be affectes, When i turn on the ignition, there are no fi light etc. the whole cluster doesnt work.

Only the clock is shown, light etc are working.

How do i go about fixing this?

Thanks in advance.

it looks lilke horn wires??

 

[jfheath]

Everything works on an HISS system - except if it doesn't recognise a valid key, the fuel pump will not prime when the ignition is turned on (and run stop is set to run) and the HISS light continues to flash slowly.

It will even crank over if an invalid key is inserted. But wont start.

 

[Rob20111]

Did you check all the fuses in the BOTH fuse boxes?

 

[MysterYus]

Oops, the HISS wiring diagrams are... err, um, well... still on the drawing board?
You should find the Wiring Schematic mostly useful, except when it comes to the HISS.
The motorbikes sold in the US did not utilize the HISS anti-theft device, and thus I never thought about including it in the diagram.

However I imagine that most of the sub circuits (windscreen circuit for example) probably remain the same.

The Run/Stop switch circuit controls much more than the ignition, at least for the non HISS version in the US.
When you look at the Wiring Schematic (see Post No. 18) you can see:

The Run/Stop switch passes power (+12vdc) to:

1. The Engine Start Button
2. Bank Angle Sensor Relay (coil)

The Bank Angle Sensor Relay passes power (+12vdc) to:

1. Fuel Cut-Off Relay
2. Ignition Coil, Cyl. 1&3
3. Ignition Coil, Cyl. 2&4
4. Fuel Injectors 1,2,3,4
5. Purge Control Solenoid
6. Exhaust Air Injector Solenoid
7. O2 Sensor, Cyl. 1&3
8. O2 Sensor, Cyl.2&4
9. Engine Control Module

So, the buzzing you're hearing may be the Bank Angle Sensor Relay, which may be at fault, or it may just be a symptom of the problem that started with the short circuiting of the black conductors (wires).

I think you have a fair bit of research and discovery in your future before you have a satisfactory explanation of exactly what when wrong when the wires were shorted. With that knowledge, not only will you affect the repair of the problem, but also have the confidence that your repair will not have contributed to additional problems down the road.

Its a steep learning curve but having to go through this experience allows me diagnose problems of the bike in the future. Never know if these similar problems might occur during touring (touch wood) . Am still looking into it and hopefully nothing major or else there goes my wallet LOL.

Regarding the kill switch, its been found out that it has been bypassed. Hence the kill switch will not turn off the engine when its set to off(when the engine is running). Beats me what else the previous owner did to the bike. Other wise, the switch works as intended.

For the brake light, a good friend of mine did a simple trick to see if its wiring related. He took out the front brake light wire (which is the 2 connector thats connected to the switch to jump the connection. Took a small wire and connect one end each to the 2 connectors. Lo and behold, when connected, the light comes up! This means the problem lies in the switch where the two connectors are connected to. Ordered a pair of switches for replacement and hopefully it will resolve the issue.

For the small indicator light not lighting up at the fog light switch, i’m not sure yet, fog light works but not the indicator. Weird as it was working before. Still looking into this.

Windshield button still not functioning, am gonna try to get a new pair of relays for the windshield and see if it resolves the issue. I saw this https://www.st-owners.com/forums/th...ur-intermittent-microswitches-at-home.165869/

If anyone can enlighten where the “black wire“ could be connected to would be nice. Found a resemblance of what the pin looks like; https://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/110_Connectors/110_connectors.html

Could it be the wire got disconnected somehow?

it looks lilke horn wires??

Am not sure myself. I blacktaped the two end separately. Not sure the reason of existence for this wire Horn still works normally with the ends blacktaped

Everything works on an HISS system - except if it doesn't recognise a valid key, the fuel pump will not prime when the ignition is turned on (and run stop is set to run) and the HISS light continues to flash slowly.

It will even crank over if an invalid key is inserted. But wont start.

Its my first bike with HISS. Since its able to start the engine, im sure the feature is working as intended. So far so good on this feature.
Just wondering, will the HISS light stop blinking after certain period as a mechanism to stop draining of the battery?

Did you check all the fuses in the BOTH fuse boxes?

Did triple check both boxes at LH side of bike and the main fuse A and B at RH side of bike, No blown fuse!

Im not sure if it may be due to faulty grounding, because if grounding fails at a point, wouldnt it affect all other electronics thats connecting to the same grounding as well? Still looking through the possibilities. Every bit of information helps . Thanks for staying with me on this journey of mine hehe. Will keep yall updated.

 

[jfheath]

Its my first bike with HISS. Since its able to start the engine, im sure the feature is working as intended. So far so good on this feature.
Just wondering, will the HISS light stop blinking after certain period as a mechanism to stop draining of the battery?

Yes - it does stop blinking. In fact when I went out to check what I had written before clciking 'Post Reply', my HISS light wasn't blinking. I went out on the bike 3 days ago. I did read how long it blinked for, in the handbook, but I forget what it said. It blinks for at least a couple of days though. There is no significant drain on the battery that I have noticed - the bike still starts easily after being left for a couple of weeks.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

I did read how long it blinked for, in the handbook, but I forget what it said.

Blinks at two second intervals for twenty-four hours before turning off.

 

[MysterYus]

Here is a closure to my issue. The main root cause was due to the windscreen limit switch being faulty. Decided to get a new one from factory and replacing it resolves the issue. I believe that it may be due to old age and of course the large/heavy windshield that the previous owner put on it. Im gonna be gentle with it now and not to use it at high speed/while riding whenever possible. The replacement aint cheap. Gosh LOL.

Took the chance to get a new set for right hand switch cluster and the ignition button works normally now too

Thanks everyone!

 

[ST Gui]

Im gonna be gentle with it now and not to use it at high speed/while riding whenever possible.

By that I assume you mean not operate it at high speed? I'll lower mine a bit at speed as gravity is my friend in that case. Otherwise I try to set and forget. Keeping the assembly lubed is probably another huge thing that will extend its life.