Here's my attempt at giving you enough information to install the Audiovox
CCS-100. I believe a picture is worth a 1000 words so I'll try to keep it
simple, yeah right. You will need to keep track of how to put your bike
back together.
Be sure to check out the ST1300 Rider site for updates.
[fieldset="Preparation ahead of time"] Buy an Audiovox CCS-100 electronic cruise control kit.
Buy a check valve. Napa part number 2-1015 or similar. This particular check valve has 1/8" barbs which is perfect.
Buy a few feet of 1/8" ID vacuum hose.
Buy a little tube of blue thread locker.[/fieldset]
Cut two of the brackets that come with the Audiovox kit.
CCS-100. I believe a picture is worth a 1000 words so I'll try to keep it
simple, yeah right. You will need to keep track of how to put your bike
back together.
Be sure to check out the ST1300 Rider site for updates.
[fieldset="Preparation ahead of time"] Buy an Audiovox CCS-100 electronic cruise control kit.
Buy a check valve. Napa part number 2-1015 or similar. This particular check valve has 1/8" barbs which is perfect.
Buy a few feet of 1/8" ID vacuum hose.
Buy a little tube of blue thread locker.[/fieldset]
Cut two of the brackets that come with the Audiovox kit.
Fabricate a bracket for the control switches. My bracket is constructed
from .06 aluminum and it also holds a handheld 2-way radio to the right.
The Audiovox directions include the dimensions for the slot in the bracket.
The slot is for the wires coming off the back of the switch unit.
Construct a vacuum canister. I made mine from two 2" PVC couplers with a
short piece of 2" PVC pipe between them. The ends are 2" slip to 1/2"
FPT. I used brass fittings to reduce down to 1/8" barbs. I painted the unit
black so it doesn't show when mounted.
My friend constructed his vacuum canister from a 5" length of 2" ABS and
two 2" ABS end caps. He drilled the ends, threaded and cemented the
brass barb fittings into place. This unit is lighter than the PVC and is
already black.
Remove the access cover from the servo unit. Set the dip switches as follows:
[fieldset="dip switch settings"] 1 On 4000ppm
2 Off 4000ppm
3 Off Tach only
4 On Light vehicle with high horsepower
5 Off Light vehicle with high horsepower
6 Off Control switch normally open
7 On Tach source, coil[/fieldset]
from .06 aluminum and it also holds a handheld 2-way radio to the right.
The Audiovox directions include the dimensions for the slot in the bracket.
The slot is for the wires coming off the back of the switch unit.
Construct a vacuum canister. I made mine from two 2" PVC couplers with a
short piece of 2" PVC pipe between them. The ends are 2" slip to 1/2"
FPT. I used brass fittings to reduce down to 1/8" barbs. I painted the unit
black so it doesn't show when mounted.
My friend constructed his vacuum canister from a 5" length of 2" ABS and
two 2" ABS end caps. He drilled the ends, threaded and cemented the
brass barb fittings into place. This unit is lighter than the PVC and is
already black.
Remove the access cover from the servo unit. Set the dip switches as follows:
[fieldset="dip switch settings"] 1 On 4000ppm
2 Off 4000ppm
3 Off Tach only
4 On Light vehicle with high horsepower
5 Off Light vehicle with high horsepower
6 Off Control switch normally open
7 On Tach source, coil[/fieldset]
Plug the harness onto the connector and replace the access cover making
sure the wires don't overlap.
Either cut or wrap up the black cable that is for the magnetic pick-up as it
won't be used.
I also chose to cut the gray wire short. It is for the bright green backlight
LEDs that are located in the middle of each switch. I didn't like the
appearance so I didn't use it. The center Cruise Control LED will still
operate when the unit is turned on.
READY TO INSTALL
Remove the fairing plastics from both sides of the bike.
Lift the tank. No need to remove it.
Remove the airbox. (unplug connector on the rear side, 9 screws on the
cover, air filter, unbend metal tabs and remove 2 screws per funnel,
remove the 8 screws under the funnels that hold the airbox in place,
remove the two hoses from the underside of the airbox)
Connect a length of vacuum hose to the servo unit.
Feed the servo unit throttle cable, vacuum hose and purple wire from the
left side of the instrumentation over to the right side.
Mount the servo unit on the left side of the instrumentation. I used a metal
cable clamp and hardware that came in the kit and threadlocked the
hardware.
VACUUM CONNECTIONS
Cut and connect the vacuum hose to the vacuum canister. I mounted the
canister on the right side of the instrumentation with a few zip ties.
Cut a short piece of vacuum hose and connect the check valve to the
vacuum canister. Make sure the check valve is in the right direction (the
engine pulls a vacuum on the canister).
Connect a length of vacuum hose to the check valve and route it under
the frame and use the small black tee in the kit to tie it into the MAP
sensor's vacuum line. The map sensor can be lifted with the removal of
one small screw so you can get to the vacuum hose.
THROTTLE CABLE
Thread lock and tighten the hardware on the bracket shortened earlier.
Remove the bolt located on the front right of the throttlebody.
Mount the new throttle cable bracket as shown with the bolt just removed.
Cut a 7 ball section from the chain provided in the kit.
Attach the 7 ball chain to the throttle cable as shown using the bead chain
coupling. Connect the other end of the chain to the small bead chain
eyelet connector. I chose to heat shrink both couplings.
Connect the small bead chain eyelet connector to the other shortened
bracket using the screw with the shoulder and it's lock washer and nut.
Thread lock and tighten.
Feed this whole assembly under the right side frame and mount the cable
using the two jam nuts.
Open the ST's throttle wide open and remove the nut on the left front of
the throttle body. (the one retaining the ST's throttle cables pulley) It
looks like things are going to go boing but they don't.
Attach the short bracket as shown, threadlock the nut back into place.
You will need to adjust the servo's throttle cable position using the two
jam nuts to achieve the proper placement of the short bracket. You can
manually pull on the servo's throttle cable to see that you are getting full travel.
Try going wide open throttle back to closed several times using the ST's
handlebar throttle watching the cable/ball assembly for free travel. It
should never hang up on anything.
Put the airbox completely back into place and start up the bike. There
should be no difference in the RPMs compared to before the installation.
Try the handlebar throttle and make sure it behaves the same as before.
WIRING
Cut and connect the purple wire to the green/yellow wire on the right side
of the bike. You will find the green/yellow wire on the left side of the red
connector. Rather than use a wire tap, I carefully stripped about 1/8" of
insulation from the green/yellow wire, soldered the purple wire to it and
heat shrinked over the connection.
Do not cut the blue wire as it has a noise suppressor in it. Connect the
blue wire to the yellow/blue wire on the left side coil. I chose to make an
adapter rather than use a wire tap.
I chose to seal the back side of the switch unit with silicone sealer. I then
mounted the switch unit with the attached double sided tape to the
bracket. I also chose to cover the wires with heat shrink tubing.
Route the switch wiring and plug the ends into the color coded
plastic connector.
Plug the two plastic connector pieces together.
Connect the two black wires using ring terminals under the bolt holding the
front frame bar to the frame.
I connected the red and orange wires to the quartet harness. Red wire is
+12v. all the time. Orange wire is +12v. only when the ignition is on.
Secure the tank and plastic fairing pieces.
Go for a test ride. All should work well. Remember, you have a kill switch.
The cruise control should disengage with the actuation of either brake or
clutch. You can manually override the cruise control with the throttle.
Good luck and of course, all usual disclaimers apply. This installation is
working well for me and we duplicated it on my friend's ST with great
success.
Ray
I hope you enjoyed our site. Admittedly, it's a labor of love but a lot of
time goes into it.
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