H4 Headlight bulb replacement instructions for ST1100

USA bikes have an "odd" fitment on the two lower tabs on the stock bulb, compared with a standard H4. The shims emulate the stock bulb tabs after you cut them off the generic H4 replacement. There are pictures somewhere, Google it. I don't think your European bike needs the shims as the Euro headlight is "standard" H4.

I think I got this right.

Hopefully not a stupid question:
-Other than less expense than the OEM bulbs for the headlight, is there any other reason to use the H4's with the shims? Is the light output any greater than with the OEM bulbs?

Thanks.

It easily allows for greater lighting output, as in the Silverstars that I truly love for being seen more.

Erdoc48 said:

Hopefully not a stupid question:
-Other than less expense than the OEM bulbs for the headlight, is there any other reason to use the H4's with the shims? Is the light output any greater than with the OEM bulbs?

Thanks.

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OEM bulbs are 45/45W. H4's come in various wattages, but most go with the 55/60W - 55 being the low beams, 60 being high beams. You could put 90/100W in there - BUT - you risk melting the plastic housing too.

Here's a picture of a H4 bulb with a shim installed. I usually just bend the tabs at 5 and 7 O'Clock instead of cutting them off as some people do. And I bend the little tabs at the bottom to the left and right to help hold the shim in place.

Good right up!

Thank you for the picture! I just got my H4 shim yesterday, looking forward to installing the new H4 bulbs!

sent by thepaleobiker - on Tapatalk

N.B. - when you snip a lower tab on an H4 bulb, you still need to flatten the remaining root of the tab. A slight curve will remain that will cant the bulb, moving the filaments from their optimal positions relative to the reflector. A Vice-Grips works well for this.

John [w/Euro H4 headlight module on his '91 SSMST1100]

Fred D said:

Here's a write-up from someone either on My-mc.com or the ST email list of how they did it. (apologies, as I don't remember who, so am unable to give proper credit).

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Might be a combination, Fred, but the picture you attached (in post #10) is from Scott Finn, STOC 4752, posted to the old ST LiSTserv (now ST-Riders.net).

John

John OoSTerhuis said:

Might be a combination, Fred, but the picture you attached (in post #10) is from Scott Finn, STOC 4752, posted to the old ST LiSTserv (now ST-Riders.net).

John

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Thanks John, I have tidbits of wisdom on the ST1100 going back to 1993, mostly are just cut and paste of the post's body. Sometimes I got the poster's name, sometimes I didn't : .

Ok, the good news - I was able to complete the H4 bulb upgrade ! the instructions on the first post were spot on! Thank you!

Now the bad news - it took a lot longer than it should have, mainly because the wire that holds the bulb+ shim in place is such a PITA to get into the right spot without cameras and lights all around.

I've noticed my battery struggles a bit when starting - the lights now blink/completely dim out when starting up. Is it because the battery is weak? I've been riding daily now for 2 months...

Some pictures!


All the three plastic pieces removed - windshield + the below two sections



A peek inside, looking at the back of the bulb housing area ( sorry about flash! I was working from 8 pm to 11:30 PM...)


The rubber boot/protector at the back of the bulb removed, after having wiggled out the power connector


All in all, I'm happy I did it, but I really am not sure if the gains are truly worth it. I'll find out soon! Thank you all for this great thread.

Regards,
Vishnu

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thepaleobiker said:

...the lights now blink/completely dim out when starting up.

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On an US spec bike with hardwired lights their supposed to go out while depressing the starter button.
Actuated by the starter knob is one closing- (starter relay) and one opening- (headlight relay) contact...

So unless you've altered the wiring or switch set...

(Euro-spec bikes have a full light switch with 0-P-ON, enabling to have all lights off while cranking, but be sure to have them ON when leaving the slip/parking space)

ST1100Y said:

On an US spec bike with hardwired lights their supposed to go out while depressing the starter button.
Actuated by the starter knob is one closing- (starter relay) and one opening- (headlight relay) contact...

So unless you've altered the wiring or switch set...

(Euro-spec bikes have a full light switch with 0-P-ON, enabling to have all lights off while cranking, but be sure to have them ON when leaving the slip/parking space)

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Aha! That explains it, yes. I guess I didn't observe it closely previously, this makes sense.

But on a side note, considering I've the 28 AMP model, do I have enough extra room for the bigger H4 bulb? I'm only concerned because I'm also planning on installing FF50 driving lights, I've got the D Seng brackets.

Am I potentially overloading it - maybe I should be asking this in another sub forum. Thank you for clarifying!

Regards,
Vishnu

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Again, check if the headlights really go OFF, or just dim due the voltage drop caused by the current drawn by the starter...

With 2x H4 you'll have an "official" surplus of ~10A avail on the 26A system, and your 2x 55W/H7 FF50ies already use that up... so I'd only use those aux lights while riding/having rpm present, but not while idling.
I even suggest to set your idle to ~1100rpm (as its standard on EC-spec STs) to cope with the current of the two 55W LOW filaments while sitting at a red light, etc...

ST1100Y said:

Again, check if the headlights really go OFF, or just dim due the voltage drop caused by the current drawn by the starter...

With 2x H4 you'll have an "official" surplus of ~10A avail on the 26A system, and your 2x 55W/H7 FF50ies already use that up... so I'd only use those aux lights while riding/having rpm present, but not while idling.
I even suggest to set your idle to ~1100rpm (as its standard on EC-spec STs) to cope with the current of the two 55W LOW filaments while sitting at a red light, etc...

Click to expand...

Thank you good sir, again, for your kind advice. I think I need to revisit the plan to install the FF50s, maybe I should install lower powered lights just to be "safe" ?

I came across these LED lights on Amazon, its 27W..but not sure about the legal implications (designated for off-road usage)

--> http://www.amazon.com/Tuff-LED-Ligh...bs_auto_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=12R9127H4KXT8W2PTCQJ

I'll need to think about this for a few days & read up more on the driving lights. Thank you for all your tips! Really helpful.

Regards,
Vishnu

thepaleobiker said:

not sure about the legal implications (designated for off-road usage)

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The legal implications are that the light is illegal for on the road use as it is not approved by the DOT in any application. A lot of people wouldn't/won't let that stop them.

The purpose of legal limitations is safety. Others will disagree. So be it. If everybody used good judgment there would be a lot fewer rules. But here we are.

We all want all the light we need. The problem is we aren't the only one's one the road. Any change in lighting should put neither you or another driver (yeah I said it) or rider at risk.

So you don't want to change to a system that gives you less light than you already have. You need to see where you're going and what might be in your way.

OTOH too much light can put both you and others at risk. Ride down a dark road and turn on the 1.21GW of light. You can see for miles and miles and miles. Animals that don't flee are vaporized. Turn off that aux lighting and you're temporarily blind or at best seeing purple everywhere. And you may be blinding other drivers to the point of harm. Maybe.

So if you step outside the boundaries of legality at least use your new-found power for good instead of evil. Using good judgement is much better than the screw them I'm on a motorcycle and it's the survival of the fittest mantra.

Whatever you decide remember the most important inflexible rule-- post pics. It's always nice to see how someone has accomplished their goal.

Harley riders add loud exhaust and sport tourer riders add driving lights.

Just a note - On the ABSII models, you can't 'come in from the top' - the ABS brain is in the way.

If adding extra electrical draw to a 28amp system, install and monitor a good voltmeter like the Datel that reads to a tenth of a volt. The red/amber/green kind don't qualify, IMNSHO. Turn off your additional load(s) when you see any reading below ~12.6 volts actual (calibrated by checking against multimeter readings at the battery posts). I used to use 13 volts as my cutoff, before my upgrade. JMHO

John

ST Gui said:

Turn off that aux lighting and you're temporarily blind or at best seeing purple everywhere.

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I agree to a lot of your points there ST Gui, but that one in particular...
Quite often I just keep my low beams on, only adjust them a little higher (but so they still don't dazzle other drivers).
For me/my eyesight much better then the constant light/dark changeover when flipping the high beams on/off all the time...

I'm aware that you guys might run though some really abandoned areas, no reflecting white-lines, no reflector posts on the shoulders, etc...
For me here the EC-spec H4 headlight of the ST1100 works just brilliantly.