Hi All! Lurker Finally Introducing Himself!

ThatCurtGuy

ThatCurtGuy

Joined
Nov 27, 2024
Messages
5
Age
43
Location
Winter Haven, FL
Bike
1994 Honda ST1100
Hi! My name is Curtis. I live in central Florida. A couple of months ago, I picked up my 94 ST1100. I had been looking for a fun mile muncher that was more comfortable than my NC700x and more reliable than my 84 Magna VF700. I have pulled so much information from this site and look forward to learning more and contributing!

And... Pictures!
ST1100_FD.jpgST1100_RP.jpg

A bit of a Temu special for my 'dash shelf/tech bar'. It works quite well except for some forward and backward movement. I am thinking of adding a tie in to another connection forward of this point to keep it in place.
ST1100_TechBar.jpg

My daily driver, 2013 NC700x.
NC700X_SD.jpg
 
kiltman said:
Welcome from the Great White North!
If you haven’t done so already, do a search on 28 amp alternators and upgrades and determine if yours has been upgraded. Invest in a voltmeter.
Enjoy the ride on one of the best bikes out there.
Click to expand...
I have been looking at the upgrade and adding a voltmeter. The previous owner stated that the alternator was leaking oil.
 
ThatCurtGuy said:
I have been looking at the upgrade and adding a voltmeter. The previous owner stated that the alternator was leaking oil.
Click to expand...
Put a piece of paper on the floor under the alternator overnight and check in the morning if there’s oil on the paper, if there is, you have an upgrade to do in your future. In the meantime, remove the left panel to gain access to the battery. You will need to inspect three things. First the connector to the main relay. It has a rubber boot over it, there usually is a green 30 amp fuse sticking in a holder of that rubber boot. Lift up the boot and remove the red connector from the relay and inspect the condition of that connector. If you see melting or burn marks on the red wire that goes into the connector, replace.
Take a look at the white 6 pin connector that attaches to the voltage regulator/rectifier. Inspect it for melting or burn’t out sections. Replace as necessary
There’s another red connector that has 3 yellow wires going into it and three yellow wires going to the above mentioned white connector. Most owners have removed that connector and have spliced the yellow wires. ( three individual splices)
With a voltmeter connected directly to the battery and engine running you should see 14.9V-15.1V at 3Krpm. I ran a digital voltmeter to a switchable source near the battery and would monitor it. If the voltage drops down to 13.2 V with no accessories running there’s little life left in the alternator.
When you do the upgrade to the air cooled 40 amp alternator, normal voltage is 14.1 V at 3k rpm. There’s detailed how to do the upgrade if you do a search on the forum.
Once you do the upgrade the bike will last forever. ;)
All the best.
 
Start watching evilbay for a complete 40 amp alternator including the base with the drive gear also the sub harness fir the 40 amp alternator. Kiltman is giving you good advice. I prefer doing the red wire bypass with a 30 amp relay. When get to doing the alternator upgrade it can be pretty intimidating as a fair amount has to come apart but is is doable. The 40 amp will go in in 2 parts and the alternator will go in but you sure have to hold your mouth just right. Watch a few videos on how it goes in.
Oh and welcome to to the nut house
 
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