Has anyone ditched the engine guards and smoothed out the lower fairings for better lines?
Or when it wants to lay down slowly, as well.Still find the crash..er..Engine guards useful when the bike wants to lay down suddenly.
Without them the body would be toast and it would be much harder to pick it up after a tipover.
............Balance doesnt seem to be an issue for me...but I'm 6'2", 240.
1st question: Why?STs have great lines....just think they would look so much better without them. Balance doesn't seem to be an issue for me...but I'm 6'2", 240.
2007 ST1300...great idea on the photoshop.ST1100 or ST1300? Either one would be a lot of work for sure but still doable.
If you are handy and have Photoshop (or a similar program) you could mock it up and see before you do it.
I love the bike so far....just think the engine guard 'bumps' ruin an otherwise sleek looking machine.1st question: Why?
Second comment : Just wait.
!s
My ST has a center stand....figured if I made the modification I could use that instead of the traditional kick standI dropped my ST in a parking lot just a couple of months ago. First time in 45 years EVAR, dropping any street bike! The tipover bars saved me lots of money. I will keep mine like it is. Ask anyone who owns a Yamaha FJR what happens when you tip one of those over in a parking lot.
Hey new guy! This is a great place to pick brains! Best of luck!I love the bike so far....just think the engine guard 'bumps' ruin an otherwise sleek looking machine.
It's certainly feasible. But if you ever drop the bike you're in trouble.
That'll be an expensive drop.
I assume by "better lines" you mean "aerodynamics"?
Or do you mean for looks?
If it's for looks then cutting off the protruding loops of steel shouldn't compromise the engine mounting bolt. HOWEVER: If you dropped the bike after removing the crossmember and the loop and for some reason all of the plastic in between didn't provide a good enough crumple zone.... You would probably be looking at a bent engine guard or a sheered mounting bolt nut!
Here's the way I'd do it;
View attachment 277848
Angle grind the dotted lines and cap the ends and paint.
As for the fairing. Tricky but doable. Probably best to use some plastic Epoxy like JB weld to get a back plate in place, maybe a thin sheet of polyester cut to size JB welded onto the back of the hole. Followed by several layers of woven matt with polyester resin. Then a long afternoon of U-Pol filler and sand paper.... followed by a primer and a top coat of your choice.
Fair warning... Honda ABS plastic does not like GRP!
It will make a good contact at first, then within several days to a week or two, it will start to delaminate... So it is very important that you get a solid backing on there and use JB weld to make a base to work off of! I wouldn't recommend doing it, because even with a solid base, the chances are you'll end up with a small unsightly crack where the GRP ends and the ABS begins.
And if you just rely on the ABS to GRP connection, your work will be ruined.
The other option would be to make some sort of custom engine guard cover that tucks in much more, and then paint it the same colour as the rest of the fairing.
I prefer option 2 but it's your bike.
Have at it.... What's the worst that could happen. You end up having to buy a new lower fairing for 20 clams!
Pfft worse things have happened at sea!
Hah, portly..... That's definitely a polite way of putting it![]()
I dropped my ST in a parking............ Ask anyone who owns a Yamaha FJR what happens when you tip one of those over in a parking lot.