A big NOo on that one, sir. But you could pull out that ballast and go back to the OEM connector feeding the H4 direct.
New G6 H4 with SHIELD is now availible - no glare no scatter.
- Thread starter spiderman302
- Start date
A big NOo on that one, sir. But you could pull out that ballast and go back to the OEM connector feeding the H4 direct.
My bulbs sit just fine without bending anything...???
Well ain't you special? Actually, good for you. Before I reinstalled the boots, I saw my ST1300 bails fouled against the fan housing. Then when you add the thickness of the boot between the bail and fan housing, the amount of foul increases. Hence, I needed to "reconfigure" my bails.
ST Gui
240Robert
T_C said:
That's what I was thinking. I've seen LED brake light flashers that say 'Not for incandescents'. As for switching back to the original connector that would be a little inconvenient to do on the road.
I don't think Amazon offers just the spare bulb and don't recall anybody mentioning ordering one from Cindy.
Oh.. I assumed the ballast plugged into the original H4 connector. No?
ST Gui
240Robert
D'oh! You're right! I haven't got mine yet but yes. The ballast is 'in series' with the bulb and power so pop the ballast connector off the factory connector and put it on the halogen bulb.
But that does mean open the bail which is a little tricky for my hands. But at least there are options— spare G6 (means buying a set) or reverting to a halogen bulb (lifting that bail).
Got my G6's yesterday, will be installing tonight. Will gladly suffer a few cuts and bruises if I can get them in without pulling any plastic! lol
So, from what I can gather after reading through all 40 pages after I ordered:
1) You MAY have to bend the end of the bale to clear the fan/rubber boot.
2) You MAY have to cut the plastic tabs (or over ride them) on the lamp itself and/or bend the little reflectors in order to get the proper horizontal alignment.
Whoa, this should be fun!
So, from what I can gather after reading through all 40 pages after I ordered:
1) You MAY have to bend the end of the bale to clear the fan/rubber boot.
2) You MAY have to cut the plastic tabs (or over ride them) on the lamp itself and/or bend the little reflectors in order to get the proper horizontal alignment.
Whoa, this should be fun!
In lieu of trying to file or cut those plastic small tabs, I removed those 2 little screws in the base plates and relocated the holes in the steel part. I think I clocked them 11-degrees. Can't recall if I moved them clockwise or counter-clockwise while looking into the headlight from the front (looking aft).
Just went to the garage and checked. Standing in front of the bike and looking aft, the holes were relocated counter-clockwise 11°.
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Both lamps are in, just need to tie stuff back. Thanks for the tip, hoowasat!
After looking real close, I decided to "carve" out the recess for the tabs a little longer to enable the lamp to turn horizontal. Seemed the lesser evil of all mods. Fits snug, won't pop out.
It's nice being able to adjust the alignment.
I did have to reform the thumb tab section of the bail due to interference with the fan. No pics, but used one for reference and bent the tab outward with pliers, keeping the tab in the original position.
After looking real close, I decided to "carve" out the recess for the tabs a little longer to enable the lamp to turn horizontal. Seemed the lesser evil of all mods. Fits snug, won't pop out.
It's nice being able to adjust the alignment.
I did have to reform the thumb tab section of the bail due to interference with the fan. No pics, but used one for reference and bent the tab outward with pliers, keeping the tab in the original position.
MajorTom
QuickBlue
For point #1: there is no need to bend the bail to clear anything. The LED 'bulb' is removed from the mounting plate (following the supplied instructions). The mounting plate (with the two tabs modifies per the usual procedure for a non-Honda bulb) is installed. The bail is locked over the mounting plate. The rubber boot is installed over the bail and mounting plate, making sure it's pushed down firmly around the hole in the mounting plate. Finally, the bulb is installed following the instructions provided with the kit, the connection is made to the plug and the transformer and extra wire is tied up somewhere securely using the supplied zip ties.
For point #2: I did have to twist the LED 'bulb' slightly counterclockwise (viewed from the back) in the mount to level the bulb. I did not modify the plastic mounting.
Got the part about removing the business end.
Not sure where to tywrap the regulators to, as the wire isn't very long with it coming out the bottom of the light. For now I popped them into the side openings, may end up velcroing to prevent them from bouncing around.
Didn't have to remove plastics, and only needed one band aid.
I wish! When I "dry fitted" everything without the rubber boot you could see the bail wire thumb section presses against the fan shroud, and from the front it was a bit cockeyed, not fully seating all the way around the reflector opening. Would have been worse with the boot. Funny how some people on here had interference and others didn't?
Not sure where to tywrap the regulators to, as the wire isn't very long with it coming out the bottom of the light. For now I popped them into the side openings, may end up velcroing to prevent them from bouncing around.
Didn't have to remove plastics, and only needed one band aid.
Dave.David
Rider
Re: New G6 H4 LED bulb with SHIELD is now availible - no glare no scatter.
Can I run a modulator with these G6 LED bulbs?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Can I run a modulator with these G6 LED bulbs?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
Well, I decided I'd start the process. After considering the options, I'm going with pulling the headlight out, cutting new slots for the H4 standard, then installed the Eviteks. It only took me about an hour to have the headlight sitting on the bench - even though I stripped Redbird down to the point of removing both top fairings. It will be a lot easier to deal with the 'bail bending' and fitment with the unit on the bench!
Sorry we didn't have more time to talk about this yesterday Phil. And we forgot, or didn't have time, for you to check mine out darn it.
Seems a big RTE isn't the best place to deal with such things!
Update: I'm pretty happy with the lights so far, though haven't travelled much more than down the street at night.
It seems the fans are speed sensitive to how hot they get, as they are quiet at startup, but after a 200 mi ride they were louder. One fan/heat sink was warm to the touch, the other was much hotter as in could only touch for a few seconds. Have a note into Evitek over the concern. Even on "high", the fans don't seem to move any air. The regulators get pretty hot as well. I used velcro to hold them to the inner cover yet allow easy disassembly, would be careful about burying them with no airflow.
It seems the fans are speed sensitive to how hot they get, as they are quiet at startup, but after a 200 mi ride they were louder. One fan/heat sink was warm to the touch, the other was much hotter as in could only touch for a few seconds. Have a note into Evitek over the concern. Even on "high", the fans don't seem to move any air. The regulators get pretty hot as well. I used velcro to hold them to the inner cover yet allow easy disassembly, would be careful about burying them with no airflow.
Uncle Phil
Site Supporter
Next question - Do the 'ballasts' (the little metal 'boxes' halfway down the wire) get hot with use (Playfair - is that what you are calling the regulators?)? I obviously would not want to 'hang' them close to other wires if they do. Any ideas?
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Dave.David
Rider
Re: New G6 H4 LED bulb with SHIELD is now availible - no glare no scatter.
And will the G6 work ok with a modulator?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
And will the G6 work ok with a modulator?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Re: New G6 H4 LED bulb with SHIELD is now availible - no glare no scatter.
They work fine with mine....but I keep waiting for a cop to stop and question mine!
4:
They work fine with mine....but I keep waiting for a cop to stop and question mine!
4:
(They are technically not "ballasts" by definition, just current regulators)
Yes, they do get pretty warm, so I wouldn't go burying them in the sides with no airflow. I opened the top of the case, and the workings are encapsulated in epoxy so should be water tight.
Ended up using the mushroom type velcro included with EZ Pass to fasten them to the inner panels on the 1300, 1100 should be similar.
Tip- Extra EZ Pass "velcro" pieces are free if you sign into your account and go to "accessories" tab and order some!
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