New G6 H4 with SHIELD is now availible - no glare no scatter.

spiderman302

spiderman302

Joined
Apr 22, 2011
Messages
1,047
Age
69
Location
Camarillo, Ca
Bike
2006 ST1300A
New G6 H4 LED bulb with SHIELD is now availible - no glare no scatter.

We did it. It works. You no longer have to do it yourself. I have put 17,000 miles on the prototype and these are better.

------------------ update ------------------2018---------------------------

I also noticed that some of these sites are running out of the H4 version of the G6 bulb. Gee... I wonder why.......)

I am getting questions about not being able to find the Evitek G6 H4 bulb. I too needed to get another set and could not find them either. So I did some looking around.

There is a lot more stuff out there now and confusing!

In 2017 they came out with the T8 bulb with a fan and the S1 bulb without a fan.
In 2018 they came out with the F2 bulb with a fan.

G6 is 22 watts, tall beam, shortest reach.
S1 is 22 watts, mid beam
T8 is 25 watts, mid beam
F2 is 30 watts, thin beam, most focus, more light to the horizon. This one is most like the original Halogen bulb....

The F2 is about 50% brighter and is narrower focused than the G6.

If you double the power you will only see 50% further, If you cut the beam angle in half you will see twice as far...

Is it worth throwing away the G6 and getting the F2? I would say NO, since the improvement is really only slightly noticeable.
They all create DOT compliant beam patterns. One is not better than the other, just slightly different. It depends on your riding style needs...

If you just want the best available in 2018, just look for the F2 led. It looks like this and will be sold under different labels.

A new DOT spec needs to be written and the F2 LED should be the mold around which it should be made.
The tolerances should allow that the T8 and S1 should be acceptable. I hope we do not have to wait 21 years like we did for the H4 to become the 9003....


F2_ax.jpg

It should be available soon on amazon from Evitek.

You can get it now from JDM for a price....

https://www.amazon.com/JDM-ASTAR-Ge...sr=8-19-spons&keywords=headlight+h4+led&psc=1

or

https://www.amazon.com/Safego-Headl...111185&sr=8-2-fkmr1&keywords=evitek+led+h4+f2

or you can still call Cindy at Evitek and order direct and wait for the package....


Tech differences

The G6 had a heatspreader sandwiched between two circuitboards. The F2 has one circuit board between two heatspreders. The plus is better focus, the minus is higher spot temperature.
So it will take some time to prove long term reliability. I just swapped out my G6's and put in a set of F2's. I will keep the G6's in my top box just in case....

And there are others that work as well, Read below for the story or skip to the end for updates

-------------------------------------------------------- update ----------------------------------

I helped develop this bulb. It creates a nice flat cut off that prevents glare to on coming drivers and allows the driver/rider to see further down the road. This is the best H4 led bulb on the market. No glare. No scatter. Enjoy

Thank you to all on this forum who helped with this project. The magic is in the Shield.

Below is the original unshielded G3 bulb on the left verses the new Shielded G6 bulb on the right in my ST1300.

G3origVS_G6shielded.jpg
 
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The h4 is the only shielded bulb.

The H7 does not need a shield since it should be in the reflector housing.

EVtek makes H7's. Just email the vendor and ask if they can get them.
 
Is this bulb a plug n play for the mount or to the two bottom tabs still have to be modded?
 
That is $54 for a pair!

You will have to trim the bottom two tabs. I keep asking for the Honda plates but have not gotten an answer yet.
initial tests the power is 20 watts on low and high. I will add more info since I am testing right now.... It has a fan so heat should not be an issue.
I added photos to the first post. The new LEDs better fills the low beam reflector.
These are as close to plug and go as you can get. You should make sure that the shields are level. I have slightly bent up the shields a bit to make the beam perfectly flat.
out of the box they should give you a 7.5 degree up tilt on both sides. (which is what a H4 halogen should give you).
 
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I keep getting asked about color temp. I will have to check They will have to increase power to get the same lumens. You need to know that lower color temperature does not help you see better at night nor does it reduce glare. It is just a user preference. There are a bunch of myths about this. What does help vision that no one talks about is having multiple sources of light. A single light source (motorcycle) creates flat lighting. Whereas a motorcycle with low mounted and wide set aux lighting will create and fill in shadows that greatly helps our 3D perception. Go out and walk on a rocky trail with just a head light. Then take off the head light and hold it low. The shadows give you a depth perception that you do not get with just the head light... Now a head light and a low held flashlight works better....

Try this with a reflector. Place a flashlight at your temple (next to your eyes) pointed at the reflector and notice how bright the reflector is. Now move the flashlight away from your head. The brightness will quickly drop off. This is because the reflector returns the light to the source. Water droplets in fog do exactly the same and that is why fog lights are mounted so low on your bumper to get the light source away from the drivers eyes. But also that the scattered light illuminates the road.

Enjoy
 
I think they over compensated on the twist. The ST has slop so I was able to make it level without any effort. If the twist is at the stops you can bend the driver side shield up and the passenger side shield down a few degrees to make it level. I am having the same issue with the DRZ housing. Or if you over torque the bulb, It will push past the stop (with out breaking anything) and you can get it level. I tried this on three bulbs with out breaking the plastic nubs. The mounting ring is flexible enough that there is no damage.

If you twist the fan 1/8 a turn CCW and pull, it will come out of the mount. You can adjust the two wings that are under the low beam element. You only need to move them 5 degrees to level out the beam. It is just a nudge to get this change. if you do not want to move the wings. Reinsert the light into the mount and turn it 1/8 turn CW till it stops. Then continue twisting the fan housing just past the stop another 5 degrees to get it level. It will work. You do not have to do anything to your light housing or bike.

I gave feed back to the manufacture about this inconvenience. They will look into it. I also heard back that they are working on a "yellow" version. I asked what they meant by "yellow" since I know that some are still looking for a lower color temp.

Someone bought a set and will test it on his modulator. These things are bright enough that you may not need it....
 
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So I was one of the adopters of the of the original LED bulbs and your shield design. How does this bulb and shield compare to the original design you were messing with before?

I always seems to be to early or too late to these things
 
Mike

If you were able to modify the original 3800 with a shield and it works for you then you are good to go. The new version is a little easier to install since they increased the mount hole diameter to get the shield through.
 
Here is a Third way to fix the level issue with the G6. I suggested that they just move the pin locations by a few degrees. In the mean time a few of you got these lights. So if you are careful with an small sharp knife you can trim the small plastic pins in the mounting ring. The two pins are different sizes to prevent you from mount the light upside down. I split each pin in half. See photos. I marked the side to remove in red (center photo). I did the same on both sides. The picture on the left is the original. the picture on the right is after it was trimmed. This was enough to get it level. Again the ST1300 (honda mount) with the trimmed bottom tabs has enough play that you do not need to do this.

mountTrimG6.jpg
 
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spiderman302 said:
Someone bought a set and will test it on his modulator. These things are bright enough that you may not need it....
Click to expand...


That would be me. I won't see them for awhile...Estimated delivery Monday, Jan 11, 2016 - Friday, Feb 12, 2016...slow boat from China I'm afraid...

When Lane Splitting, just having the high beams on doesn't get them to move over, like a modulator on high beam does!

Update 1-4-2016: They came in over the New Years Weekend. I haven't mounted them yet, but wouldn't matter too much since it is raining all week, so I won't be able to test them until next week anyway. I'll have to see how my time goes for this week, hopefully I'll have the time to mount them and then test them. I just wonder what the fans are going to do with the power to the light going up and down.
 
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I've been following these LED threads and ordered the G6 bulbs via Amazon for my ST1300. Thanks to all of you who risked some $$$ and laid the groundwork for the rest of us!

I installed them yesterday along with LED corner/marker bulbs. I removed the mirrors, windshield and dashboard to make access easier, and was able to do all the work from above. I am impressed with the brightness, but the real test will come when I get a chance to ride after dark (snowed here yesterday). I am one who likes to carry spare bulbs, so I bought two sets of bulbs. Albeit, now I will have to remove one of the black inner fairing panels in order to replace a bulb (tie-wrapped excess wiring behind those panels). Glad this bike has two headlights.

It will also be interesting to see if the trend of ST1300 left-headlight burnout continues with the LED bulbs. Has anyone experienced a failure yet, and was it the left-side bulb?
 

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