It's quite possible it was an inventory thing and the options are updated based on how many of which ones they have left. Just a thought.
G2 Tamer Thottle Tube
- Thread starter mitch96
- Start date
It's quite possible it was an inventory thing and the options are updated based on how many of which ones they have left. Just a thought.
Mellow,
By looking at your install article it appears that the stock tube is in fact longer as best as I can tell in your photo.
Sonny
By looking at your install article it appears that the stock tube is in fact longer as best as I can tell in your photo.
Sonny
Yes it is, sorry I didn't measure it but if I had to guess, maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch shorter. If someone has one they haven't installed yet we can compare. The OEM tube is 5 3/8 inches long.
Looks like a farkle I need! I haven't been able to figure out how to participate in a group buy of this item. I see they are out of stock right now on the G2 website, but how do get a discount when they have them again?
I'm sure someone will post when the info is avail.
st13fundred
Blue:The color of which place?
I installed my G2 throttle tube yesterday. Good news and bad news. First the good news...
The G2 does exactly what I hoped it would do.. it smoothes out the abrupt throttle from take off! I've only ridden around the neighborhood (several times); but the results are subtle, because the take-up is so seemless now. The only thing I've noticed is the bike seems a bit less torquey, but this may be because the previous Off-On feel is gone. As others have said, Honda should've done this from the factory (since they weren't able to get the FI mapping tuned very smooth - but neither can a lot of other companies get it right either).
The bad news is that I managed to do what I feared - I damaged my throttle-side Honda grip heater.
It works when its off the tube, but quits when its on the tube (the resistance is two ohms off the bike, and open circuit on the bike). Since I can't buy a single grip heater, I'm kind of looking at these Hot Grips "BMW looking" grips with integrated heaters (like the Hondaline grips): Link. I have to do some investigation whether they'll interface with the Honda grip controller.
Matt
The G2 does exactly what I hoped it would do.. it smoothes out the abrupt throttle from take off! I've only ridden around the neighborhood (several times); but the results are subtle, because the take-up is so seemless now. The only thing I've noticed is the bike seems a bit less torquey, but this may be because the previous Off-On feel is gone. As others have said, Honda should've done this from the factory (since they weren't able to get the FI mapping tuned very smooth - but neither can a lot of other companies get it right either).
The bad news is that I managed to do what I feared - I damaged my throttle-side Honda grip heater.
It works when its off the tube, but quits when its on the tube (the resistance is two ohms off the bike, and open circuit on the bike). Since I can't buy a single grip heater, I'm kind of looking at these Hot Grips "BMW looking" grips with integrated heaters (like the Hondaline grips): Link. I have to do some investigation whether they'll interface with the Honda grip controller.Matt
How did you take your grips off? Sounds like there might be an exposed wire touching the tube now that's grounding it out. I wonder if taping it w/electrical tape before installing the grip will fix it.
st13fundred
Blue:The color of which place?
I had to break the bond of the grip glue between the Honda grip and the original throttle tube. I used a long thin screwdriver. I'm afraid it did chew up some of the rubber on the internal side of the grip, but no wires can be seen. I should mention that pushing the grip onto the G2 is no easy feat. In my case, it seems the expansion of the grip over the new tube is enough to open up the circuit internally. I wouldn't shy away from installing the G2 guys - I did this to myself. But I will try your electrical tape suggestion, it couldn't hurt, huh? Thanks Joe. The neat thing about the G2 being aluminum is that now both the right and left heated grips are in contact with metal, so theoretically the heating on both sides should be more even.
Matt
p.s. I'm trying to see the glass half full - I've always wanted BMW grips!
Going off on a slight tangent here:
Removing grips:
To get a grip off, slide the smallest, thinnest screw driver you can between the grip and the handlebar / throttle drum. Squirt WD40 up inside the opening. Wiggle the screw driver around a tad to get the WD40 spread out. Grip will slide right off.
Installing grips:
Thoroughly clean the handlebar / throttle drum with lacquer thinner to remove the WD40 from the previous step. Do the same with the grip. Spread a towel underneath the grip. Pour some lacquer thinner in the grip and shake in vigorously to make sure the entire inside of the grip is coated with lacquer thinner. Slide the grip onto the handlebar before the lacquer thinner inside the grip can dry. The towel is there to protect your plastic in case you had too much lacquer thinner in the grip. You have about 1 minute to perform this operation before the lacquer thinner dries. When it dries, the grip will not move.
Been doing it this way for 35 years. Grips are on solid and tight.
Removing grips:
To get a grip off, slide the smallest, thinnest screw driver you can between the grip and the handlebar / throttle drum. Squirt WD40 up inside the opening. Wiggle the screw driver around a tad to get the WD40 spread out. Grip will slide right off.
Installing grips:
Thoroughly clean the handlebar / throttle drum with lacquer thinner to remove the WD40 from the previous step. Do the same with the grip. Spread a towel underneath the grip. Pour some lacquer thinner in the grip and shake in vigorously to make sure the entire inside of the grip is coated with lacquer thinner. Slide the grip onto the handlebar before the lacquer thinner inside the grip can dry. The towel is there to protect your plastic in case you had too much lacquer thinner in the grip. You have about 1 minute to perform this operation before the lacquer thinner dries. When it dries, the grip will not move.
Been doing it this way for 35 years. Grips are on solid and tight.
Blrfl
Natural Rider Enhancement
Another trick is to turn the grip backwards against the throttle stop to break the glue loose.
st13fundred
Blue:The color of which place?
Thanks for the advice guys.. all good stuff.:yes: I hope others learn from it (myself included ). : Yes, the air compressor is a tried and true helper (Blue Streak made a cool PVC adapter - I should've made one); Yes, the WD40 would've helped; and I yes, I did turn the grip against the stop (at both ends). One out of three.
Back on topic - the G2 is a simple and effective answer (even if you weren't asking the question).:
Matt
: Yes, the air compressor is a tried and true helper (Blue Streak made a cool PVC adapter - I should've made one); Yes, the WD40 would've helped; and I yes, I did turn the grip against the stop (at both ends). One out of three. Back on topic - the G2 is a simple and effective answer (even if you weren't asking the question).
:Matt
You have to with that kind of power.. I've heard similar comments about the busa.
wjbertrand
Ventura Highway
I think the throttle-by-wire systems coming out these days will ultimately be the final solution to this abruptness problem. Correcting it if not initially correct will consist of nothing more than an ECU re-flash.
+1 ... Honda is at least doing it with brakes on one of the RR sportbikes, maybe others.. Actually, I thought I read that somewhere so not sure how true it is.
Another solution to this problem would be to make the cable pulley on the Fuel Injection end of the cables eccentric instead of concentric to it's pivot shaft.
Although I have to agree with WJ - fly by wire will be the ultimate solution (provided it's adjustable).
Although I have to agree with WJ - fly by wire will be the ultimate solution (provided it's adjustable).